Orange/crater in clear

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Mulepick

New member
After successfully shooting previous coats, I'm finding that I can't seem to shoot the clear w/o cratering and orange peel. I'm using HOK 35 clear with proper activator and a HOK medium reducer. I'm adding about 3-4 extra oz of reducer per mixed qt. as suggested elsewhere for better flow. I make sure the temp is right, surface is cleaned with a wax/grease cleaner before shooting.

I'm using a cheapo gun but it's a 1.4 tip HVLP gravity feed at about 30psi at the gun.

I feel like I'm shooting it on pretty thick. The roof/hood are mostly cratering while the non-horizontal surfaces are where most of the orange is.

Ideas?

Tks,

Bob
 
M

Mulepick

New member
Yes, one of those plastic ones filled with some type of granules. Can you recommend better?

I use a separate hose for painting than for all other uses of my compressor as well.

Tks,

B
 
S

SportriderBryan

New member
Nope, sounds good just make sure you drain the water out of the compresser often. As per your problems I'm not sure. I know I had problems once and ended up added a filter and haven't had a problem since. It is almost impossible to end up with no orange peel. Thats what color sanding and buffing is for.

Mulepick said:
Yes, one of those plastic ones filled with some type of granules. Can you recommend better?

I use a separate hose for painting than for all other uses of my compressor as well.

Tks,

B
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hoss

hoss

New member
do you see the orange peel after the first coat or there after the second or third coat?

my point is that you might be waiting too long after your clear flashes. this will make the clear not settle together and flatten out.
 
M

Mulepick

New member
seems to happen after the first clear coat. I'm waiting till tacky before I shoot the next. Actually, I haven't shot a coat since yesterday so before I shoot again I will rough it up.

Bob
 
M

Mulepick

New member
Had my best experience to date with applying clear. Had to heat the garage up to at least 70 though. I was looking over a SATA question/answer site and the SATA guy said to open the air, mixture, and pattern screws open to a guy that was kicking about the performance of his new 3000. "After all this is built like a Porsche, and they like to go wide open." Well, I can vouch that they cost like a Porsche at least.

Anyway, everything wide open, UC35 with extra reducer, new catalyst, new in-line dessicant, 33psi at the gun. Shot it on slow and got a few runs the first application. Went a little faster on the 2nd and 3rd and things turned out pretty well. Dust nibs only on horizontal surfaces, some orange peel on horizontal surfaces but I'm hoping it will buff out tomorrow.

My 2 senses worth...

BTW, the color turned out great. BC26 white base over primer/sealer. About 4 layers of dry blue pearl mixed with runny clear then the real clear. Looks creamy in low light. When the sun hits it, bam, light blue opal on the curves. Sweet.

Tks,

Bob
 
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