orange peel BAD!!!

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flatscrewd

Guest
The infamous no cut and buff paint job aludes me again. I just got done with a toyota supra , a complete, jams ground affects everything . All was looking good until the clear. The owner supplyed the paint, PPG base and PPG concept clear. The clear seemed too thick it just never layed down . So now I have a green golf ball on wheels .
I know that it can be cut and buffed that is not the problem it just pisses me off that I cant seem to get it right.
Whats the deal with clears some I have used are as thin as water and others are as thick as PLC . I use a devilbiss finnish master hvlp gun. It seems that if the first coat does not lay down that you just stack oranges on oranges then you end up with a lemon.
Honestly whats the trick?
 
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Jim

Member
I use high solid clears from Dupont,I learned that raising my air pressure and useing a slower reducer helped a ton.You may get a run now and then but,the clear lays soooo much flatter.A smaller tip to start until you get used to it also helps like a 1.2,the largest I use is a 1.3 which lets me go a little faster.I'm very happy with the results.jim
 
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tiller2nv

Guest
When I first started my peel was BAD! I tried extra reducer and higher air pressure and nothing helped. I now shoot my clear with half the reducer and it lays down flat as glass! I use HOK UFC-35 flo clear. (I think it) It has a lot to do with getting your air pressure and gun controls perfect. Best thing to do is just play with it a bit on some test pannels until you get it right.
 
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flatscrewd

Guest
I just shot some checkers on my race car and I used valspar 2k clear and just whent for gold on the first pass and thing are much better. I think now that a tack coat for the first pass is not what you want because the second and third layers just lay over the stipple of the tack coat and thinning the second and third coats do very little to smooth thing out. I have another fluid tip , I will check it tomarrow and see what it is. Thanks guys for your help. I appreciate your input.
 
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Stretch

New member
I was playing with some clear tonight and a new gun and can't seem to get things down. When I spray a test pattern I can see the center is fully covered and as you move to the edge you can see the pattern break down till it's very small dots of paint on the edges.

When I try to spray the surface I can move slow and see the paint start to smooth out but it never quite lays flat. I think my pressure is maybe too low. If I go really slow it looks better but still isn't glass smooth. If I go fast the orange peel seems smaller but the coverage isn't as smooth.

Another thing I noticed when spraying tonight was the booth really seemed to fill up with overspray more than it previously had. This is a new gun but it seemed a bit too smokey in the booth. Is that a sign of too much air and not enough paint?

Thanks-Stretch
 
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Jon_E

New member
Ive also found the PPG clear to be way thicker than I like but try experimenting with your gun distance too.

Try holding the gun closer to the pannel and then moving faster with it. You have to make more passes since the fan is smaller but I find that it makes the clear a lot easier to work with.
 
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tiller2nv

Guest
What kind of gun is it? Whats the PSI at the tip? What size tip?
 
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Stretch

New member
I got a new LPH-100, 1.4tip, I think I was a little low with air at the gun probably about 12-15psi.

-Stretch
 
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BCDrums

New member
Stretch..

I have the same gun(lph-100) and i have messed with it alot. I have found that if i put the pressure at about 22-24psi things spray pretty well. They say to use 18psi but it just seems too low.

I am going to mess with this gun some more b/c as of right now I am not sure how i feel about it.
 
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flatscrewd

Guest
When you say presure at the gun do you regulate at the tank?
I have a regulator there and then I have a control at the gun . The air control at the gun has a presure gage and what I do is to hold the gun WFO and then continue to adjust the air control until the gage reads 10 psi and the when I let off the trigger the gage reads what the regulated tank presure is. If thats correct than I cant see the 18 or 20 psi that is recomended. Because at that point there is quit a bit of over spray and it seems like a regaular gun.
 
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Stretch

New member
Please Read! Air pressure specifics....

flatscrewd-

that sounds like what I was doing with my DeVilbiss GTI. I have a regulator at the tank that's wide open. Then I have a water trap/regulator mid line that's also wide open. At the gun i have another smaller regulator that I use to adjust to the require PSI. On my GTI I couldn't get enough air to the gun. On this new LPH-100 I can get 14-18 at the gun but it does seem like quite a bit of pressure. Can anyone comment on this? My understanding is you DO want to set the pressure at the gun with the everything wide open and trigger pulled?!?!?

Thanks-Stretch
 
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Jim

Member
Re: Please Read! Air pressure specifics....

Yes,You want to read your pressure with a Full trigger pull.
 
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tiller2nv

Guest
Re: Please Read! Air pressure specifics....

Yep thats where I use to go wrong. Stretch I have the same setup.
 
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Stretch

New member
Re: Please Read! Air pressure specifics....

tiller2nv-

You're using the Iwata too? How's it working out for you? What tips do you use and what pressure settings?

-Stretch
 
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tiller2nv

Guest
Re: Please Read! Air pressure specifics....

1.3 tip, its my clear gun. Im at 15 psi with a full pull, With a slow pass. We used the Iwata in the PPG cert class and after that I was sold. Its a great gun in the winter and spring but when it gets hot you have to switch to Sata. If you go from a Sata to a Iwata you will notice that you'll have a lot more clear left.
 
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