Outstanding Fix
- Thread starter ezrider
- Start date
T
TAZ
Guest
Thanks EZ,
Always harder trying to figure out someone elses work especially what colors they used. I've only done a few of them. I figured I'd take step by step pics of this one.
Always harder trying to figure out someone elses work especially what colors they used. I've only done a few of them. I figured I'd take step by step pics of this one.
T
tooter
Guest
DAM GOOD JOOB AHH BUT HOW DID U DO THE CK BOARDS
K
kevsLX
Guest
Oops, I just link right to the forums so I missed it too. But that is awesome, I'm sure you made somebody real happy with that repair.
What's the yellow tape you used?
How did spilled gas strip the old paint off like that?
What's the yellow tape you used?
How did spilled gas strip the old paint off like that?
T
TAZ
Guest
Tooter,
The checkerboard was basically done using regular 3/4" masking tape. Do three rows one way (long ways), then do rows the other way. Then I put an X on all the one's I want to take out. I take a razor, and cut all the way down each way, then pull out the squares with an X on them. Then the border of the checkerboard has to be masked off.
I sprayed a coat of white pearl mixed with PPG 895, then put one coat of candy red over the checkerboard (just where the candy insert is though. This seemed to be a dead on match for the board.
Kev,
The guy told me that he had it out in the garage and the gas just leaked on it. He said it only took about 1 1/2 hours for the gas to eat the paint. He was also using the wrong caps. Anytime you buy the aftermarket tanks or an older style tank (like pre 96), you need to change caps. They look the same, but will not work correctly. He bought a new set before picking up his tank.
I also did the oil tank to match the tanks. Just didn't post any pictures.
I did notice when I was stripping the paint job directly below the clear was still soft, which means it never was properly cured. So once the gas ate through the clear, the paint would be history.
The yellow tape I used was "Tesa" tape. It's like the 3M 1/8" blue tape, just a different color. I had too many problems with the 3M tape's glue "pulling" on the corners, so now I either use the 3M 1/16" or the Tesa 1/8" yellow.
The checkerboard was basically done using regular 3/4" masking tape. Do three rows one way (long ways), then do rows the other way. Then I put an X on all the one's I want to take out. I take a razor, and cut all the way down each way, then pull out the squares with an X on them. Then the border of the checkerboard has to be masked off.
I sprayed a coat of white pearl mixed with PPG 895, then put one coat of candy red over the checkerboard (just where the candy insert is though. This seemed to be a dead on match for the board.
Kev,
The guy told me that he had it out in the garage and the gas just leaked on it. He said it only took about 1 1/2 hours for the gas to eat the paint. He was also using the wrong caps. Anytime you buy the aftermarket tanks or an older style tank (like pre 96), you need to change caps. They look the same, but will not work correctly. He bought a new set before picking up his tank.
I also did the oil tank to match the tanks. Just didn't post any pictures.
I did notice when I was stripping the paint job directly below the clear was still soft, which means it never was properly cured. So once the gas ate through the clear, the paint would be history.
The yellow tape I used was "Tesa" tape. It's like the 3M 1/8" blue tape, just a different color. I had too many problems with the 3M tape's glue "pulling" on the corners, so now I either use the 3M 1/16" or the Tesa 1/8" yellow.
R
rogernorcal
Guest
hey scott it's roger.are my stock gascaps ok on my 97' fatboy?i dont want to screw up your latest and greatest masterpiece.thanks
T
TAZ
Guest
Hey Roger,
You will need to replace these (you should anyway just to make sure you have a nice seal). You will need pre '93 threaded gas caps. They will look like your current caps except the threaded portion is just a little smaller. Of course, just like your stock caps, you will need a regular and a reverse threaded cap. You will also need longer fuel lines due to the added width on the tank. I already did the "cutout" on the front of the rear fender for you before I painted it.
By the way, these will go out Monday (9/23)
For those who haven't seen Roger's job, it is the intertwining yellow and green pearl flame job I did.
<p align=center>
</center>
<p align=center>
</center>
You can see more pics here
You will need to replace these (you should anyway just to make sure you have a nice seal). You will need pre '93 threaded gas caps. They will look like your current caps except the threaded portion is just a little smaller. Of course, just like your stock caps, you will need a regular and a reverse threaded cap. You will also need longer fuel lines due to the added width on the tank. I already did the "cutout" on the front of the rear fender for you before I painted it.
By the way, these will go out Monday (9/23)
For those who haven't seen Roger's job, it is the intertwining yellow and green pearl flame job I did.
<p align=center>
<p align=center>
You can see more pics here
M
mblong
Guest
another great job Scott, How may coats of clear did you put on that great masterpiece match job you did?
flamethrower
New member
Scott,
Awesome work! I have a couple questions.
1. Did you sand the other tank down a bit and re-clear it?
2. Jon K @ HOK says his UFC-35 is rocket fuel proof. I obviously try to keep the fuel off my tank, but should I worry about spills and such is HOK clear really that good?
Thanks.
FT
Awesome work! I have a couple questions.
1. Did you sand the other tank down a bit and re-clear it?
2. Jon K @ HOK says his UFC-35 is rocket fuel proof. I obviously try to keep the fuel off my tank, but should I worry about spills and such is HOK clear really that good?
Thanks.
FT
T
TAZ
Guest
Thanks for the posts guys!
I apologize, I did not see the previous 2. Not that I don't want to answer...just been absolutely swamped with work, emails....and now were moving to a bigger shop (what a ride!!!!
). Just not enough hours in the day. I do get emailed on all posts, but do not have time to check all. Everyonce in a while I do check out the posts and see they are directed to me.
Anyway, here are some answers to the previous posts.
>As far as the match job, I put on about 3-4 coats of clear. Since your post, the owner wanted a bigger rear fender, so I also did that as well. You can see number 199 in the Samples of Work section.
>I use the 3M green tape. Still not happy with the quality of 3M. Not only does the 3M blue 1/8" tape not have problems sticking, not I'm having problems with the 3M 1/16" tape not being constant for width of it's tape. I will literally set aside certain rolls of their 1/16" tape just to use for outline since it is quite thinner than the 1/16" and use the wider (almost 3/32") for the layouts.
>I did sand the other tank down using 800 grit. As far as fuel spills, I have *never* (knock on wood) had a problem with any jobs using either the PPG Global 884 or the HOK clears. I have switched over to HOK clears about 80% of the jobs now.
Hope this helps everyone a bit!!
Thanks!
I apologize, I did not see the previous 2. Not that I don't want to answer...just been absolutely swamped with work, emails....and now were moving to a bigger shop (what a ride!!!!
Anyway, here are some answers to the previous posts.
>As far as the match job, I put on about 3-4 coats of clear. Since your post, the owner wanted a bigger rear fender, so I also did that as well. You can see number 199 in the Samples of Work section.
>I use the 3M green tape. Still not happy with the quality of 3M. Not only does the 3M blue 1/8" tape not have problems sticking, not I'm having problems with the 3M 1/16" tape not being constant for width of it's tape. I will literally set aside certain rolls of their 1/16" tape just to use for outline since it is quite thinner than the 1/16" and use the wider (almost 3/32") for the layouts.
>I did sand the other tank down using 800 grit. As far as fuel spills, I have *never* (knock on wood) had a problem with any jobs using either the PPG Global 884 or the HOK clears. I have switched over to HOK clears about 80% of the jobs now.
Hope this helps everyone a bit!!
Thanks!
Hi Scott, I've been using HOK UC35 clear for some time now but recently I was steered to the PPG 2021. I like it much better than HOK because it seems to lay down better.
I'm wondering if you've used the 2021 and if so, what's the major difference between that and the Omni?
Thanks,
Phil
I'm wondering if you've used the 2021 and if so, what's the major difference between that and the Omni?
Thanks,
Phil
The 2021 I used (dcu2021) was causing me some problems because it was staying soft. Even after a week it was getting scratches from just about anything. I mixed it according to the tech sheets as well. Could have just been a one time thing but I'm going to try out the HOK clears to see how they work.
-Stretch
-Stretch