paint peeled off

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guest01

Guest
Primed my fender using omni primer sanded it with 600. Used wax and greese remover. blew the remains of the wax and greese remover off with air. tack raged it shot the base 2 coats of clear. sanded with 1500 layed out the flames peeled the tape and some of my base coat came off too . ended up the whole paint job peeled right off the fender down to the primer. Can you sand primer too fine? how long does the wax and greese remover have to dry off before you can paint?
 
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diabhalman

Guest
Dude! That sucks! I don't know fer sure what happened there but wax and grease remover needs to be washed off with water so you get all the residue that the remover lifted. It's like removing glue, there are products to loosen and soften it but you still need to clean the residue with a seperate rag or tool. With wax and grease remover I put some on a damp towel, wipe, take another damp towel and wipe again. Make sure you use clean rags as well.
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guest01

Guest
Thanks for the info. I did not know that. I had pinstriped the flames too. It really sucks but it was my bike luckily so at least its my problem. Will definatley start wiping it down with water before applying paint
 
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diabhalman

Guest
I hope that's all it was. I've had some problems with that myself so hopefully your good to go.
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guest01

Guest
I seen another tip to wipe down your parts with windex then after it dries use wax and greese remover I trying that too.
 
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diabhalman

Guest
I've never heard of using windex but keepit away from your chrome. I guess the ammonia weakens it or something. I have heard of soap and hot water in connection with fiberglass and composites. If it works let me know.
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guest01

Guest
There is a tip in the tip section under prepping prior to painting check it out. I used the windex on a fender I shot today. After the glass cleaner you still have to use the wax and greese remover.
 

rex

New member
Don't blow off the G&W remover or use water on it!Wet the surface well in a small area (say 2' square or so) and wipe it dry with a dry clean rag.Wipe it dry too,if it's still somewhat wet after you wipe over it flip the rag to a dry clean spot or grab a new one quick and wipe it dry.It works by lifting the contaminants to the top of the solvent so you need to wipe it off while wet,if any dries before you get to it it needs to be rewet to float the contaminants again.If in doubt,wipe it down twice.Once you wet the surface you can usually see fisheyes in the solvent where it's lifting off the contaminants,but there are things that don't show up like that so be sure to wipe and dry it thoroughly.I've known 2 people that just wiped it on wet and let it evaporate and they rarely got a problem,but when they had massive problems they wouldn't listen and just poured fisheye juice in the paint.That's another subject but avoid using this stuff the best you can.
 
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TWISTED

Guest
they probably meant the shine dulls a bit if wiped with windex. A little polishing and it shines right back up.
 
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diabhalman

Guest
I don't know the reason it affects chrome but I've seen it firsthand. It's not an instant thing, it's a matter of over time it will strip the chrome. If you want a timetable talk to a scientist!
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I'm just passing on what I've been told and what I've seen
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Pigpipes

Guest
Kinda makes me yearn for the good 'ol days when you'd wipe it down with a little thinner(when did it actually become reducer?) and you were good to go. A little laquer primer and a coat of that newfangled acrylic enamel and you were done. To date myself even further, I remember bitchin' when a gallon of red metallic cost me $63.00. Highway robbery back then...
 
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tcannon

Guest
When I started painting the "old timers" told me to make sure and wipe everything down "good" with lacquer thinner before laying on the color coats. This was their "adhesion promoter"! Just "keep that rag a movin' and don't stop".
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rex

New member
Keep it up guys,I'm feeling younger as the posts go on
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Thinner was for cutting lacquer and reducer was for the enamels and urethanes.Thinner became a generic term in the early days of reducers and I called them thinner myself.I can remember using thinner to clean surfaces years ago but I think all this environmental stuff changed the thinners over the years,now it leaves a residue behind that G&W remover won't remove and if you break thru to the metal you can peel the primer off with your fingernail.TC,I wonder why they didn't just spray it on?Those old promoters like Jamit were basically thinner in a carrier to thicken it up a little.
 
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