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Painting Temps
- Thread starter crazycuda
- Start date
G
gchagrin
Guest
Not much painting should be done 60 degrees or less. Your fast reducer won't even react accordingly. Primers are thicker and you may run into trouble with spraying and consistent coat. You may want to try it on a test panel.
Now 60 degrees with humidity and 60 degrees with dry (Arizona vs Florida) may be a whole different setup...
Now 60 degrees with humidity and 60 degrees with dry (Arizona vs Florida) may be a whole different setup...
GC's real close.Humidity won't matter because reducer doesn't count now.Once it hits 60 it becomes a chemical thing and the catalys just stops reacting with the base solids.It will dry to touch in a longer time but the chemical hardening basically stops.Any time over 60 it starts reacting,once it goes below that it stops again.
Yeah,pretty much.I'd caution against spraying at such a low temp because besides the reaction problem you will have a hell of a time preventing it from sliding.If you plan on reducing it some so it isn't so thick I'd consider using cheap wash grade thinner so it evaporates as fast as possible,DT860 is probably going to stay wet quite a while.DP likes to separate bad after it's catalized so if you spray it straight or it stays wet too long it just might do that.If you can put the part in the sun and spray it there,the temp of the part is more crucial than the air temp.This way at least the heated part will help it dry.If you're doing it where you have a house or heated office you can take the part in there to keep it warm after it flashes off.Of course a car is out of the question.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif that might be the easy part.It's going to take some serious sweettalking for her to let you put a garage door in the livingroom.I know you know this but remember that DP is some of the slowest drying stuff around.At 60 degrees it's probably around 12 days to get to the normal 7 day cure.