Parts Stand

[DaveK]

I get most of it in the "how to" section and I understand that you start out using a roller extension lumber stand. I guess where I am confused is, how do you attached tanks and how can that possibly be stable enough to buff on. I don't mean to sound negative in any way. I have a couple of these and they are unstable but, Scott obviously uses these and they work.

DaveK

 

[rex]

Those stands are used for fenders only I believe.I have a post quite a few months ago somewhere on some I made out of car wheels and conduit.It's a little labor intensive but you can make removeable heads for differnt tanks and they are very stable.Other than that you have to hang them,straddle a 2x4 with a one piece tank or lay a ST tank on its side.

 

[DaveK]

Thanks Rex.... maybe Scott said that somewhere but, I didn't catch it. I needed to buff some stuff today and was looking at it. I pulled a 50 LBS vise off my work bench in the garage and moved it to the shop. Never never put your work on a vise. I had an area that needed a polish and wouldn't show on the rear fender. I vised it and polished away. Took it out and polished the part that was in the vise. Weird marks showed up... like DA marks. Sanded back out, polished and they showed up again. Found something else that needed more polishing and started to put back in the vise. Thats when I realized where the marks came from. I then sanded by and polished, by hand, that area again and it looks good, even though it doesn't show. By the way..... I used a major wool pad to protect the paint while in the vise. It didn't help

DaveK

 

[rex]

Yeah,nothing to put pressure on the paint.No matter what you use for padding the vise pressure will imbed that pattern in the paint.We all learn from mistakes so chalk this one up.Welcome to the board too.

 

[BonesFX]

Dave - I made a stand for harley split tanks that you can do everything on - It cost about 50.00 for the materials and a 12 pack for a buddy weld it together --
Let me see if I can discribe it:

The bottom part of the stand is 36" tall, 2.5" round tube (vertical). The legs are 3 peices of 1x2 inch square tubing about 16" long and welded to the bottom at a slight downward angle. Near the top of it I drilled a hole and welded a big nut to it and then welded a big nail to the bolt so I'd be able to tighten and losen the inside top tube.

The Top part of the stand is 28" tube that slides into the bottom tube. On the top of this tube I welded a 2.5" peice of the bottom tube at a length of 6" horizantally -- and did the bolt thing again on the top. Think of the letter "T" (looking from the side)
I slipped a 16" peice of tube through the horizonal part and locked it down with my little nail/bolt trick --- Now comes the fun part - If you mess up here you can't undo it because your welding everything in. On top of the 16" tube I took two 12" square leftover peices from the legs and cut the tube so that the square peice would fit down on it and give me more to weld to - Think of the letter "H" (looking down from the top) after that I took a spare tank and marked the 2 front holes on the square peice. I then drilled a total of four - 1/2" holes all the way through the square peice and then took 4 carrige bolts that were 8" long x 1/2" - Fit them through the holes and put a nut down to the bottom and secure tight. take another bolt and thread it down about 2 inches and lay a washer on top - fit your tank on and put another washer over that and the a nut - Tighten and WALLA -- Now you have a stand that will hold the biggest split tanks around -- I use this stand for everything -- Bodywork - painting and airbrushing - Buffing.... I've also sealed tanks with it and it will hold the weight of 2 six gallon tanks full of etching solution - plus you can move it up - down / left - right . and the tanks will spin 360 degrees -- If you want a pic - ask scott for my e-mail and I'll send you one --- Mines 5 years old so it's a little rough but it works as good as the first time I used it --- Peace - Bones!~