Plastic Gold Wing Saddlebags on a Suzuki C90T - Need Prime & Painting Advice

[Finalcut9]

I made some brackets that allow me to mount 1982 Gold Wing hard saddle bags to my Suzuki cruiser. I've always wanted to paint and this will be my first project since I painted a car when I was a teenager.

I filled holes that will not be used. I welded them closed with plastic and sanded smooth. Then I sanded the bags with my 3 inch orbital with 320 grit. I only took paint down to bare plastic where I plastic welded the holes shut and where there were some deep scratches. All of the original stock paint has been sanded. I filled in small scratches with Bondo red putty and sanded smooth with 320. Then I primed one of the bag bottoms (not lid) with rattle can primer. I was eager to see if everything was smooth. Everything is smooth. It looks fantastic.

Then I exchanged e-mails with a paint supplier online who told me to test their paint on it if I am using rattle can primers. This makes me nervous since I plan to buy Colorite paint that matches my Suzuki stock color and it's very expensive. I'd hate to drop over $200 on base, top, and clear to have problems later. So, should I sand down the bag that I primed and get primer from the paint supplier that I intend to use? Can I use primer from my local NAPA auto parts store (non aerosol)? Since I still have some of the original paint on the bags, should I use a sealer? If I have to take it all down to bare plastic I will. Before you answer, please keep reading.

I'm planning on going with Colorite paint because they are the only site online that I could get the actual paint code for my specific motorcycle. I have a 2008 Suzuki C90T with gold/white paint. The Colorite numbers for the white, which is what I want to paint the bags, is #1916 for the base and #4916 for the top coat. I was planning on buying their clear coat and reducer products as well. Is this a good idea or should I travel to the nearest paint supply store and get their help. The only store within an hour from me is only open when I'm at work but I could find a way to get there.

I bought a set of 3 Devilbiss HVLP guns. I also have an air brush. I have access to a paint booth and compressor at work. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Wydir]

I can supply you with PPG Envirobase for that color. Its also available in DBC. If needed I can mix it down to 8 ounces. just an Idea you can PM me if interested. be a lot cheaper than them colorrite thieves

 

[Finalcut9]

Thank you for the offer. The store that is closest to me carries PPG. I spoke with them today and they can mix up the paint for half of the Colorite price. I still needs some guidance on the proper steps in priming, painting, base, top, and clear coats. Is there a good book or DVD that people recommend? I know it will take experience to paint well but I'd like a good foundation before I start.

 

[Wydir]

look up refinish network videos on youtube

 

[TAZ]

If you run into problems, you'll find a ton of info here on the forum.
You can use the search or advanced search to find some helpful info.

 

[Finalcut9]

Thank you. I've been looking at the tips section which has some great stuff in it. I wish there was a step by step tutorial that broke down every step an specific equipment requirements so I wouldn't have to spend so much time trouble shooting. I will keep reading and get into painting as soon as possible.

 

[TAZ]

Yea, I have 20+ years into learning what you want to learn in a day.
:haha:

 

[Finalcut9]

I appreciate that! I want to start off on the right foot and not blow a lot of money learning from my mistakes. Would this DVD auto body set from Kevin Tetz be recommended? http://www.autobody101.com/content/kevin-tetz-paintucation-dvd-videos/

 

[Finalcut9]

I found a local resource to help me tackle my first painting job. The PPG supplier was able to guide me through the steps by reviewing the different product information sheets for the primer, base, mid, and clear coats. I reviewed the sheets and determined which on my Devilbiss Starting Line guns to use. I made a list of the different steps and wait times between coats. How does this list look? Any comments?

PRIMING
1	Set up primer gun A with gauge regulator & set gun pressure to 30 psi at inlet
2	Clean primer gun A with solvent
3	Mix primer per JP202 2K Primer Surface product information sheet
4	Inspect bags & sand with 400-600 grit if necessary
5	Wipe down bags with degreaser
6	Hang bags paying attention to highly visible sides
7	Inspect for cleanliness
8	Test spray pattern
9	Apply 1st coat
10	Let dry for 5 minutes & inspect. Sand if necessary & blow clean.
11	Apply 2nd coat
12	1.5-2 hours dry time
13	Clean primer gun A with solvent
WHITE BASE COAT
1	Primer must dry for 1.5-2 hours
2	Set up finish gun B with gauge regulator & set gun to 30 psi at inlet
3	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
4	Mix white DBC with DT Reducer per product information sheet
5	Inspect primed parts & clean if necessary with degreaser
6	Scuff primed parts with 600 grit
7	Inspect for cleanliness
8	Test spray pattern
9	Apply 1st coat of white paint
10	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
11	Apply 2nd coat of white paint
12	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
13	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 3rd coat of white paint
14	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
15	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 4th coat of white paint an continue dry & coat as needed to cover
16	Let dry for 15 minutes or more
17	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
PEARL MID COAT
1	White base coat must dry for 15 minutes minimum
2	Set up finish gun B with gauge regulator & set gun to 30 psi at inlet
3	Mix pearl DBC with DT Reducer per product information sheet
4	Inspect white painted parts for cleanliness & blow clean if necessary
5	Test spray pattern
6	Apply 1st coat of pearl paint
7	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
8	Apply 2nd coat of pearl paint
9	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
10	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 3rd coat of pearl paint
11	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
12	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 4th coat of pearl paint an continue dry & coat as needed to cover
13	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
14	Let dry for 15 minutes or more
CLEAR TOPCOAT
1	Pearl mid coat must dry for 15 minutes minimum
2	Set up finish gun B with gauge regulator & set gun to 30 psi at inlet
3	Mix Clear with JH6265 hardener per product information sheet
4	Inspect pearl painted parts for cleanliness & blow clean if necessary.
5	Test spray pattern
6	Apply 1st coat of clear
7	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
8	Apply 2nd coat of clear
9	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
10	Apply 3rd coat of clear
11	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
12	Dry 2-4 hours before polishing

 

[Wydir]

some of the steps are out of order we will start with the primer section #4 should be #1 your primer has a hardener in it by the time you get done sanding it will have setup in the gun but since we are talking about primer I would normally finish with 320grit any finer and I don't know how well the primer will stick. the order as you have them would look like this after the change 4,6,5,7,2,1,3,8,9,10 (after 5 min the primer will not be dry enough to sand),11,12,13,14,15,16,17 if you follow that general order you will be fine. another thought is that DBC white basecoat does a very poor job at hiding don't be surprised if it takes 4 coats if you do wet coats you could get it to hide in 2 but I don't recommend a beginner to try that just stick to the light coats. your first coat will look all spotty and not look white at all in spots, this is normal just apply more coats till its all uniform no rush!

 

[Finalcut9]

Awesome! Thanks so much for the reply. My confidence is getting higher. Should I sand (600?) after the primer has dried or can I paint the white on the primer without sanding?

This is what I now have:

PRIMING
1	Inspect bags & sand with 320 grit
2	Wipe down bags with degreaser
3	Hang bags paying attention to highly visible sides
4	Inspect for cleanliness
5	Clean primer gun A with solvent
6	Set up primer gun A with gauge regulator & set gun pressure to 30 psi at inlet
7	Mix primer per JP202 2K Primer Surface product information sheet
8	Test spray pattern
9	Apply 1st coat
10	Let dry for 5 minutes & inspect.
11	Apply 2nd coat
12	Let dry for 5 minutes & inspect.
13	Apply 3rd coat if necessary
14	1.5-2 hours dry time
15	Clean primer gun A with solvent
16	Scuff primed parts with 600 grit
WHITE BASE COAT
1	Primer must dry for 1.5-2 hours
2	Set up finish gun B with gauge regulator & set gun to 30 psi at inlet
3	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
4	Mix white DBC with DT Reducer per product information sheet
5	Inspect primed parts & clean if necessary with degreaser
6	Inspect for cleanliness
7	Test spray pattern
8	Apply a very light 1st coat of white paint. It may be spotty.
9	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
10	Apply a very light 2nd coat of white paint
11	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
12	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply a light 3rd coat of white paint
13	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
14	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 4th coat of white paint and continue to apply paint and dry as needed to get good coverage.
15	Let dry for 15 minutes or more before next step.
16	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
PEARL MID COAT
1	White base coat must dry for 15 minutes minimum
2	Set up finish gun B with gauge regulator & set gun to 30 psi at inlet
3	Mix pearl DBC with DT Reducer per product information sheet
4	Inspect white painted parts for cleanliness & blow clean if necessary
5	Test spray pattern
6	Apply 1st coat of pearl paint
7	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
8	Apply 2nd coat of pearl paint
9	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
10	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 3rd coat of pearl paint
11	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
12	Inspect coverage and if not good, apply 4th coat of pearl paint an continue dry & coat as needed to cover
13	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
14	Let dry for 15 minutes or more
CLEAR TOPCOAT
1	Pearl mid coat must dry for 15 minutes minimum
2	Set up finish gun B with gauge regulator & set gun to 30 psi at inlet
3	Mix Clear with JH6265 hardener per product information sheet
4	Inspect pearl painted parts for cleanliness & blow clean if necessary.
5	Test spray pattern
6	Apply 1st coat of clear
7	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
8	Apply 2nd coat of clear
9	Let dry for 5-10 minutes @70F
10	Apply 3rd coat of clear
11	Clean Finish gun B with solvent
12	Dry 2-4 hours before polishing

 

[Wydir]

just another tid bit of information overlap your passes 75-80% on the pearl coats to not get the tiger striping. it may not show up as much in a white color but good technique must be learned. if I remember correctly most DBC tricoat paint jobs are meant to cover in 3 coats. it is a good rule of thumb to do sprayouts of the color with up to 6 coats of pearl on them ,so in the end you will have 6 separate cards each with a different amount of pearl on them Ex. the first card will have 1 coat , the second card will have two coats, the third card will have three coats of pearl ect......... then chose what one looks best and you will be good. this is what a professional painter would do to get the best match.

 

[Finalcut9]

Thanks for the additional tips. They will definitely help me do a better job. I'm still curious about whether or not I should sand (600?) after the primer has dried or can I paint the white on the primer without sanding?

How important is 70F when painting? What is the lowest temperature a beginner could go to without risking the quality of the paint job?

 

[Wydir]

anywhere close to 50 Degrees Fahrenheit is getting to cold. You will have to sand the primer before basecoat for sure. You will want to block out the primer to make sure its flat. I would also finish the primer in 320-400grit then base, but I have gone to 600 before with no issues.