I did some Bondo work on my quater panel, basically just to even it out. I primered the area, which is just the lip area next to the wheels.Now, i plan on sanding the factory clear coat to base, then spray the whole quarter panel with a couple of base coats allowing flash times, then clear it once dry according to instructions. I have a 3 HP 21 gallon Harbor-freight compressor already. I plan on buying the Devilbiss finishline gun with three tips. The problem is i can only find one site that has Onyx Black, which is carpaintonline.com, and they're really expensive. So, i'm trying to get this right as much as possible. I know i need base and clear obviously, what about hardners? are they the same for both? what about thinners/reducers? Help is greatly appreciated, and feel free to add tips or steps. Thanks:bigokay:
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Please help a first timer on onyx black car
- Thread starter madmax98
- Start date
T
TAZ
Guest
Just go to a local auto body shop paint supply store (look in the Yellow Pages)...they'll help set you up.
Most systems use 'reducers' not thinners, but some do still use 'thinner'.
Normally basecoats do not require any sort of hardener.
Also, some clears require reducers, some don't. Here is what I would suggest though.
1 pint of the onyx black (I would suggest getting this in PPG Global, but you can use whatever you would like). This should run about $60-$80 or so.
1 gallon of medium reducer
1 quart clear plus the hardener (probably a pint)
You "should" get black sealer to, but since you plan on priming the complete panel, you will be fine without it. It will just require a couple more coats of the base.
Since you'll have some reducer left over, you can use that to clean your gun out.
I would just suggest using a 1.3 tip for both your base and clear.
I've used everything from a 1.2 to a 1.8 for both base and clear.
Most systems use 'reducers' not thinners, but some do still use 'thinner'.
Normally basecoats do not require any sort of hardener.
Also, some clears require reducers, some don't. Here is what I would suggest though.
1 pint of the onyx black (I would suggest getting this in PPG Global, but you can use whatever you would like). This should run about $60-$80 or so.
1 gallon of medium reducer
1 quart clear plus the hardener (probably a pint)
You "should" get black sealer to, but since you plan on priming the complete panel, you will be fine without it. It will just require a couple more coats of the base.
Since you'll have some reducer left over, you can use that to clean your gun out.
I would just suggest using a 1.3 tip for both your base and clear.
I've used everything from a 1.2 to a 1.8 for both base and clear.
Just go to a local auto body shop paint supply store (look in the Yellow Pages)...they'll help set you up.
Most systems use 'reducers' not thinners, but some do still use 'thinner'.
Normally basecoats do not require any sort of hardener.
Also, some clears require reducers, some don't. Here is what I would suggest though.
1 pint of the onyx black (I would suggest getting this in PPG Global, but you can use whatever you would like). This should run about $60-$80 or so.
1 gallon of medium reducer
1 quart clear plus the hardener (probably a pint)
You "should" get black sealer to, but since you plan on priming the complete panel, you will be fine without it. It will just require a couple more coats of the base.
Since you'll have some reducer left over, you can use that to clean your gun out.
I would just suggest using a 1.3 tip for both your base and clear.
I've used everything from a 1.2 to a 1.8 for both base and clear.
Thanks a lot TAZ for the help.
A couple more things: i'm trying to avoid stripping the old paint as it's in good condition, only sanding clear to avoid too thick of layer, do i have to put a sealant over it before base coats? I was going to only primer the "bondoed" area. I'm not set on doing it that way, so i'm open to suggestions. I was just looking for good results without making too hard for myself. Thanks again for the great help.
gday madmax, if the existing finish is in good condition! then i would suggest rubbing an area larger than the area that you wish to prime! say with 600 wet rub, you do not want to prime over unrubbed clear as it wont adhere.
only prime what you need to! then make sure you sufficiently rub back the primer and "feather the edge" then wet rub the existing clear coat for the entire panel.
then basecoat and clear the whole panel.
only prime what you need to! then make sure you sufficiently rub back the primer and "feather the edge" then wet rub the existing clear coat for the entire panel.
then basecoat and clear the whole panel.
gday madmax, if the existing finish is in good condition! then i would suggest rubbing an area larger than the area that you wish to prime! say with 600 wet rub, you do not want to prime over unrubbed clear as it wont adhere.
only prime what you need to! then make sure you sufficiently rub back the primer and "feather the edge" then wet rub the existing clear coat for the entire panel.
then basecoat and clear the whole panel.
Thanks a lot for the advice. So you guys think scuffing the clear is good enough to painting over? Also, i was thinking about timing, will i have enough time to clean the gun from base and put in the clear?
I looked for paint supplier around here and only william sherwin pops up, should i go there or there are other recommendations?
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not sure what you mean by "having enough time " to clean the gun, most basecoats need to be clear coated within 24 hours so im pretty sure youll have time if that is what your question entails,
as for paint suppliers i cant help you with that one, as i am in australia, and saying that i have found the way we do some of our painting here is a little different than in U.S.
as for paint suppliers i cant help you with that one, as i am in australia, and saying that i have found the way we do some of our painting here is a little different than in U.S.
not sure what you mean by "having enough time " to clean the gun, most basecoats need to be clear coated within 24 hours so im pretty sure youll have time if that is what your question entails,
as for paint suppliers i cant help you with that one, as i am in australia, and saying that i have found the way we do some of our painting here is a little different than in U.S.
Oh okay, i was under the impression that i need to clear as soon as the base allows, according to whatever the instructions say. If cleaning the gun, mixing the clear while taking my time tkes an hour or so, then I should be okay to clear, right? I'm located in Southern California and it seems that they don't have good advertisement for paint suppliers!
i cant say "yes" 100% because all manufacturers have different recomendations, but ask for the specification sheets to go with the paint, this will have all the information you need.
most basecoats have a fairly long time they can be left uncoated for, "plenty of time to clean your gun" just make sure to "tack rag" (not sure what you call them over there) the basecoat before clearing to remove any dust etc.
good luck !
most basecoats have a fairly long time they can be left uncoated for, "plenty of time to clean your gun" just make sure to "tack rag" (not sure what you call them over there) the basecoat before clearing to remove any dust etc.
good luck !