PPG Clear

Evill Ed

New member
Which PPG Deltron clear is preferred by you guys?

I want a high solids clear that is dust free fairly quick. I am putting it over DCC single stage.

Thanks,
Ed
 
B

BonesFX

Guest
PPG Global is the highest level of solids they make -- 50% and it's great -- I'm not sure if youcan go over a single stage with it though === Bones!~
 

nooshie

New member
I think DCC single stage has clear in it. I painted a car with it recently and after I color sanded it it looked like glass. I suppose if you are going to do graphics you would want to clear first. I do know that the paint store will have teck sheets that will spell out what it will be compatible with. PPG also has a website. PPG.com/cr-refinish.

Good luck
Nooshie
devil.gif
 

nooshie

New member
Evill, I just checked the ppg site and there are six DCU, urethane clears that you can put over your DCC.

Nooshie
 

rex

New member
Which clear will depend on the size of what you're spraying.I only use DCC on solid colors and I do this: spray the first coatwet but not to the point of hosing it so it solvent pops(it will easier than clear too),if I have at least 3/4 coverage I mix my second coat 50/50 with clear and shoot it normal.If for some reason it needs another coat I do the same mix but wait a few minutes longer on the flash time,2 is usually good though.I did this for years with Amerflint in the early 80s and lo and behold PPG started suggesting it when their medium solid stuff came out.You can straight clear it if you wait the recommended time but you're getting thick.
 

Evill Ed

New member
Okay guys here is the deal. I just returned to painting after a 5 year lay-off. (It's amazing how you still can keep your skills and talent with a gun after a long break)

Anyway, I am painting my own chopper right now. I did the frame and sheetmetal with DCC Single stage. I want to add flames to the sheet metal now. I can shoot the flames with DCC also and leave it uncleared. I'm cool with it because I know I can leave a minmal edge and polishing will smoothen it further. I want to clear it only because I want to use the bike as an advertizement for my painting skills. Most customers want to see cleared over graphics with no raised edges.

So, do I say screw it because it is my bike and live with a slight edge or should I clear it to impress future customers?

Thanks,
Ed
 
J

Jim Baldwin

Guest
I personally would add several coats of clear not only to help cover any edges, but to also insure a longer life for your work. By adding the clear, you can also go back and repair any scratches that most likely will happen! I believe that clear coats will add more depth to the paint and bring out the real beauty of the base art work!! Just an opinion but one from experience! JB
 
1

1stQuality

Guest
The biggest problem with what im reading is millage. An excessive build up of paint etc will cause brittle paint that will eaisly chip and crack. And be very difficult to touch up.

It seems to me that using a air brush or touch up gun to apply the flames to keep the thickness dowu, then apply two coats of clear. JMO>>>>>>>>
 

rex

New member
Your best bet here is prep it to clear,do your flames in basecoat and clear it all.The basecoat will leave a much finer edge to remove.Make it nice because people will ask who painted it.
 
J

Jim Baldwin

Guest
I don't have tons of experience smoothing out designs such as flames, etc. but one thing I did learn from my scooter paint job I recently finished, was that you are going to have people run their hands over the job to see if there is a noticeable "Edge". Those people are the friends and competitors of yours who want to see how it turned out. Having an edge feel after clearing doesn't have a thing to do with how the actual airbrushing turned out, but it seems that some people think it shows an imperfect job....Who cares!!! Well, I didn't want this to happen to me but it still did! How you can overcome this edge means a bunch of sanding between clear coats. I put on three decent coats of clear over the flames, let it set up for 8=10 hours(depending on the clear you use) and then hand sanded it wet with 800 or 1000 grit paper lightly to smooth it down where I could go back and put on three more coats and repeated this until it was level. Once I felt good about it I added another good flow coat of clear(or buffed what I'd done already) and called it quits. You won't have a tremendous build up of clear due to the sanding process, and it holds up nice and when your "Buddies" run their hands over it(usually done when you've got your back turned!!) they shouldn't do anything but say, "man, I wish mine felt that good......JB
 
Top