Prepping Garage for Painting

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Rick G.

Guest
I know some of you have painted in your garage and had very good success. I'm just looking for recommendations on how to prepare a typical garage for painting to make sure, especially when spraying the final clear, that you get as little debris in it as possible. Before painting my test pieces I swept the entire garage with a shop vac, and before starting I have misted the floor to keep any dust down but when spraying the final clear I still get a little debris in it. I'm using a HVLP gun which is amazing how little overspray I get. I open the side garage door about 1-1/2 ft. and sit a fan in front of it with a furnace filter on the front to exhaust what little fumes and overspray there is. I also wrap the stand that holds the test piece, with masking paper so it is completely clean. Any other advice?
Thanks for the help.
 
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TWISTED

Guest
Is your garage finished or are the rafters and studs open? If your garage has open rafters then your dust is probably coming from above.
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You could clean the dust from the rafters or hang some plastic above you to help with the problem.
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Happy new year to everyone on the board.
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Jim

Member
No matter what you do,unless you have a great filter system,your going to get some dust!I just Put on a couple of extra coats to allow for a good 1000/1200 wetsanding everything sanded and buffed out great.
 
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Rick G.

Guest
The garage is finished off both walls and ceiling. I think I'll try wearing one of the paper suits while I'm spraying in case it's coming from my clothes.
I may also fab up a temporary booth with the wet sheets like someone had mentioned.
Thanks.
 
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Rick G.

Guest
Rex,
Just sprayed another test piece. I swept the floor again before I started, misted the floor, and covered the work stand with new paper. I sprayed the 2 coats of base coat then 3 coats of HOK Kandy Base Coat, then airbrushed 3 flames, and finally the clear. After 2 coats of clear everything was looking fantastic. Only one very little piece of dust. When I put the third coat of clear on after waiting the appropriate flash time, all of a sudden 2 little voids appeared in the clear about 1/16" in diameter. The clear would not flow together. Why would this all of a sudden appear on the final coat of clear? Is this a fisheye or could it possibly be caused by moisture in the line? I have a filter on the hose coming out of the compressor but don't have one near the gun. The piece looks gorgeous except for this last minute problem. Damn!!
 
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rex

New member
Sounds like a fisheye,man are these things aggrevating!It could come from anywhere.If your intake source is direct from outside it could be something airborne that someone sprayed upwind or it could have come through the line.It's not uncommon for the normal moisture traps to let something through from time to time,traps like the Sharpe or Binks canister type.The trick to these is constantly drain them and the compressor tank.Usually every day is sufficient but it depends on how long it takes for your compressor and trap to build water.A route to go without getting into the expensive systems is a Motorguard filter.All it is is a canister to hold a roll of toilet paper and works great for catching those remnants the trap throws out.They also make a plastic ball trap that goes at the gun but I haven't used one in years,I experienced one blow and thousands of little plastic desicant BBs flew all over including the fresh paint on the car.Luckily it wasn't me because I'd have flipped out.All it takes is a jerk on a snagged hose and it gets a hairine crack,when it'll blow is a guess from there.Since the fisheyes are in the last coat it should buff out since you used 3 coats.I get leary taking them out of 2coat clears so I usually sand them out and reclear it after multiple wipedowns.
 
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rex

New member
Fun isn't it?Fighting dust is a pain.We have $60,000 heated downdraft booths at work and still get it at times.Actually I've never seen a paintjob that didn't have something in it.Look at your air intake source,the piece you're spraying,you and the room.If it's cool out static builds up as you blow off and tack the surface.
 
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Kyle

Guest
Does anyone here use a filter on the air INTAKE to their compressor? K&N makes filters of every size and I have thought about picking one up to put on the compressor intake.

Any ideas or experience?
 
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DenB.

Guest
if you are able to adapt a k-n filter to your compressor go for it you know the saying- better safe than---

to Rick G. when you have your door open do you have anything with the fan and filter to block the rest of the opening?
 
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rex

New member
I'd avoid the K&N for sure since they need to be oiled to be effective.Just keep a clean filter in it and you'll be fine.All the contaminants a compressor throws is from pumping and heating and cooling,the intake air really isn't a big deal but I sure wouldn't want oil sitting in the intake.The detail dept. gets upwind at times from our compressors and shop and it really doesn't mess with the compressor,but you better wipe stuff down before you sand or prime
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outlaw17

Guest
In an Ideal situation you would want to have at least 30 feet but ideally 50 feet of airline to allow your hot uncondensed air to cool and condense and then a good water/oil trap can catch the moisture and any oil in the system , then , right at the booth (this doesnt really apply to a garage) you should have some sort of dessicant drier to make sure the air is absolutely dry . I am presently battling this situation , I only have about 14 ft of airline from the compressor to the booth and the trap only catches the stuff that has condensed but the still hot wet air comes through and gives me great grief . I can put one of those little blue inline moisture catcher thingys on my gun before I apply the base on a car and If I dont put a new one on before I clear I get moisture coming out in the clear , it sucks !
 
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H Steve

Guest
Harley say that most list and dust comes from clothing. I use a painter coverall with a hood, tape the wrists and ankles.
 
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sanddan

Guest
Is your 14 ft of air line PVC? Using plastic air lines will keep the air from cooling off. I have had great luck using cast iron air lines between the compressor and the water trap. Copper would also be a good choice and less likely to leak since the joints are soldered..
 
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Sprayhappy

Guest
A trick I learned at work is to use a common black light, like you'd get at Spencer's, to go over yourself and the piece in the dark. Any lint/contamination will show up.
 
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Mike Dursky

Guest
I saw on the net a while back where some people are making like a 8'x8' room in their garage by studding some walls off at 36" centers and a few 2 bys overhead and wrapping with 4 mil plastic. Then, cutting a square section out just big enough for a floor fan and duct taping the plastic around that with the fan blowing in. They put a furnace filter on the inlet side of the fan and another on the other end of the room to catch the over spray. The room blows up like a balloon and blows everything out and lets nothing in. When you are done just disassemble. I have several 2x4s laying around and I believe that I am going to do this.
 
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Mike Dursky

Guest
That is excellent Stretch ! Thanks. Basically what I had in mind but with the fan blowing in. May be a little safer, not pulling the paint past the motor.
 
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Mike Dursky

Guest
I am going to give it a try, will let you know how it turns out. Using a HVLP Devilbiss gun so hopefully that will help with the air born overspray.
 
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Stretch

New member
I would think you'd want a bit of a fan pulling the air out just to keep any fumes from recirculating over and over? If you work something up please let us know how it works.

Thanks-Stretch
 
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