I have no experience with the Omni but I do know a few who have used it.They all praise the clear so don't get down in the dumps about it.Did you prime it with a sealer or surfacing primer?Either way they will need sanding since they sat,so I'd 600 it.Ideally you should seal it before basing but 600 scratches will be covered fine (as long as it's not a really thin metallic).I don't know if Omni has a base clear but I suspect they should,that's really what you want your pearl mixed with too.In PPG's dbu or dbc line it's just the clear tint mixed equally with the binder that's also clear(but a little milky looking),so if they don't package it premixed they should be able to make it for you.It will have a little more gloss than the base when dry so don't worry.I suspect the base is like the rest,you have 24hrs at 70 degrees to put something on it before you have to sand and put another coat on before continuing.At 85 it cuts down to 12 hrs.If you think you can base it in the morning,lay out and spray the flames and topcoat clear it in one day,that's the way to go.You can do it but it'll be a looong day.Figure spending 3-6hrs just taping the flames.If you don't want to push it you can clear it either way.The intercoat will be cheaper and if you put it on at the end of the day and get taping early the next morning you can probably get away without sanding it as long as you stay in the recoat time.My buddy was just out your way and said it was quite cool at nites so this is to your advantage.Remember the 24hrs at70.Every 15 degrees above that cuts the time in half,so if you base clear it in the evening around 70 buy the time you get on it the next morning at 70 it actually dried less than that amount of time since it was cooler at night.If it was really cold stick your finger in the clear and push some on a place on a top surface(inconspicuous like the roof and use your skin,not nail).If it leaves a print it's too soft to tape yet.Don't worry if it prints because it'll flow out and dissappear.If it's just about dry and the print doesn't go away,nip over it with 1000-1500.Use a top surface though because that's where the paint's the thickest,and tape or paper isn't a good indicator.If it doesn't print start masking and get the flames on,then top clear it.If you're worried it will end up drying too long before you can get the flames on lightly scuff it with a wet grey 3M scothbrite.Of course you can still top clear the base and sand it but that will cost more probably.When you do clear the flames it's like EZ said,put on some extra.Since you're ghosting it should be a minimum edge,depending.If it's a 2 coat clear put 3 or 4,if it's a 3 coat put 5.When you get to the last coat of the recommended amount,add to your flash time before the others.If it's 15min between coats,I add 5min until the first extra coat goes on and check that one at 20 before the next.If you touch the paper or tape and it pulls strings wait.I like to wait until when the clear will print but if I lightly slide my hand or fingers over the clear it won't smudge.Don't wait too long though.Then walk away for a day and if you can stick it in the sun the next day it's even better.600 it down and throw on the recommended 2 or 3 coats again.If you're leary about taking all the tape edge out of the first clearing,you can leave a little and put an extra coat on in the final clear.Most of the edge will melt away but a quick blocking of 1200 and finish with 1500-2000 to buff will remove it.Since you're ghosting the tape edge shouldn't be bad unless you get over 3 coats of base-2 should do it though.Good luck and have fun.
Next thing I knew he had taken a 3/4" wrench to the hood for some drawing pratice...Oh well things happen. I have now repaired the hood & sanded down the entire car with 1500. My question...Should I recoat with clear before doing the flames or can I just lay the flames down on the sanded clear then finish up with the rest of the clear? Thanks for your help.
