real flame prob.

[hoss]

for thos of U that do the real flames, i have a question. I used two colors of kandy to get a green flame w/ yellow flame at the top.

1- black base taped out flames
2- true fire white base, sprayed blue KU cobalt over
3- dried blue added more true fire w/ white base
4- took off tape, and sprayed KU pagen gold
5-let flash and shot it w/ sg100 so that i could pinstripe tomorrow

problem- the sg100 reacted the finsh where the ku gold was over the ku blue. it was a reaction like chemical stripper would do.

it had no reaction where the ku gold was directly over the base w/o the ku blue between them.

has anyone else had this problem? did i not let the blue dry long enough?

 

[Austin]

Sounds like you used the urathane kandy instead of the kandy concentrate. The base coat lifted the kandy, its the same thing that would happen if you tried to spray base over clear coat before it was cured. You should have used kandy concentrate mixed into sg100 which is still a base coat. Sucks man sorry to hear it, but base cannot be applied over fresh urathane untill after it cures the solvents will pucker it. If you would have applied a actual clear coat over it, it would not have lifted, or use base coat kandys when applying more base coat (which is what sg100 is).
Austin

 

[AirArt]

Sorry to hear of the problem. It seems to me that the SG-10 activated the UK beneath. A longer drying time may have been the way to go before the SG-100.
I stopped using SG-100 as a 'lock down' cuz it causes too many problems. I've had it lift after tapeouts, activate previous layers (like in your case), bubble, etc. Now I use a coat of clear instead of interclear. It costs a bit more but saves me a lot of headaches.
Another thing Hoss, that HOK Cobalt Blue is the worst "bleeder" of all the UK candies that will bleed. Whenever I have to use the Cobalt Blue, after it has cured plenty I'll scuff it and lock it down with a thin coat of final clear before continuing.
The SG-100 has it's place such as in using KK concentrates etc. for shading airbrush work and other applications but I try to stay away from it if possible.
Hope you get it worked out and it's not a complete "redo".
Phil

 

[hoss]

man, i was pretty proud of the job. I was wondering about that KK candie. should i get some accelarator also?

 

[Austin]

Accelarator wouldn't have made any differance once you lay down a urathane you must top it with a urathane or let it fully cure before appling any base coats. Its a chmical reaction. Base coats are the UNDERCOAT urathanes are the TOPCOAT if you apply the "base" coat over the uncured "topcoat" it will lift. I hope this makes sense I would hate to see it happen again to you. If you used PPG or DuPont the same thing would have happened. Good luck.
Austin

 

[hoss]

i was talking about useing it w/ the KK mixed w/ sg100.

 

[Ultra Al]

Hey Austin,
I have used the KK with SG-100 and never used an acellerator and never had the results you described. I did have some bad luck with some KBC bleeding on me and have pretty much decided that for me at least, rolling my own with KK and SG100, or catylized clear is the way to go. Good luck and Id like to see the job after you get it all worked out, sounds killer. AL

 

[Austin]

I'm sorry, in your first post you list that you used KU kandy which is a urathane kandy. I guess I'm not sure then if you mixed the KK with sg 100 why you would have had any problems. I would call HOK tech line and ask what may have gone wrong. Make sure you have the part #'s from the products you used, so they can determine what went wrong. I've called them in the past and they have been fairly helpful. Good luck.
Austin

 

[hoss]

you were correct i used ku kandy and it reacted. i just was wondering when i get the kk kandy that i should get the accelarator also.

 

[Austin]

I would find out if they offer a catalyst for their base coats, this would help lock everything down if they do.
PPG offers a catalyst for their base coats HOK might as well.
Austin

 

[hoss]

I've been searching my old threads! i started painting and this forum was my very first introduction to anything to do with painting. It's crazy how much i've picked up now!

this seems like a common newbe problem. and was very helpfull. also, you can get these types of reactions if you lay your base coat materials on too thick and/or don't let the cure properly before you add the next layer of paint.

but the KU and final clearcoats need to be cured way past their flashing points before you add any other basecoat graphics. this will happen!!

my brain hurts from all the knowledge ive gained from these fellas!!! 2004 WOW almost 10 years experience now!

 

[TamelaTolbert]

I've painted many castings at a time usally 10 to 20 at a sit down and i have been there and done that but as for the spectra flame paint which is laid over polished out castings i have mixed automotive 2 stage clear with adhesion promoter and brock lesnar wife pakistan flag LT and sprayed casting with a light tack coat and let dry for 10 minutes then shoot one nice coat and let it dry for an hour followed by the color a 1/2 hour dry time and then the clear coats i then leave them alone hanging.

 

[manymaniyaa]

Sorry to hear of the problem. It seems to me that the SG-10 activated the UK beneath. A longer drying time may have been the way to go before the SG-100.
I stopped using SG-100 as a 'lock down' cuz it causes too many problems. I've had it lift after tapeouts, activate previous layers (like in your case), bubble, etc. Now I use a coat of clear instead of interclear. It costs a bit more but saves me a lot of headaches.
Another thing Hoss, that HOK Cobalt Blue is the worst "bleeder" of all the UK candies that will bleed. Whenever I have to use the Cobalt Blue, after it has cured plenty I'll scuff it and lock it down with a thin coat of final clear before continuing. PhenQ | Phen375 | Phen24
The SG-100 has it's place such as in using KK concentrates etc. for shading airbrush work and other applications but I try to stay away from it if possible.
Hope you get it worked out and it's not a complete "redo".
Phil

The marking was good but the redo was all set to release those interclear things with or without the fictions