Remove pinstripe mistakes

[gchagrin]

Folks: good site. I have a new respect for custom painters.

I am "almost" done with first tank/fender job...black purple marble base with harequin ghost flames and silver/gray top flame. Everuthing is under jammin lacquer intercoat. Need to pinstrip the top flame. I know I'l make many mistakes. How do I remove the mistakes without impacting the paint job? Would I urethane top coat first, then pinstrip? What is the best for removing mistakes? Do I color sand urethane before pinstripe? I know I would top coat again over pinstripe once done. If using one shot with catalyst/hardener will I be okay, or should I go with HOK pinstrip paint?

Don't want to screw it up now!
thanks

 

[ezrider]

i dont thiink the laquer clear was a good idea. uro clear would of been my choice, about 4 coats. level out the flame edges becouse if you dont the edges will show through the stripe outlines. when erasing a mistake i use a clean rag dampened with thinner ( this is one reason i would not of used the laquer clear, you will eat into your laquer clear causing you more and greater headaches). as far as paints for stripping HOK is my preferance. you might wanna add catylist to it even though HOK says it isnt necessary becouse i did have one time where the clear ribboned my out lines /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif

 

[Bornhard]

ezrider said it best. Just wanted to add a couple things. I've had HoK pinstrip paint get fuzzy over night under some clear coat I sprayed. I've since learned to either let the striping paint have plenty of curing time, or add a DROP of catalyst you'll be using in your clear to the REDUCER you're running your striping brush through. Don't add the catalyst to the paint, because it will gunk up the paint before you're done with your job. My suggestion is to use high end Mack series, or Xcalibur brushes and keep the hairs oiled (clean with reducer before striping). I've been practicing pin striping on panels and the shop's 'frigerator for a few months now and it's still a hassle for me, so Good Luck & jump right in. I hear it takes practice to get good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/agree.gif <font color="green"> </font>

 

[gchagrin]

Thanks.... so it sounds like I will:

1. color sand the parts until the flame edges are gone; I'll use 2000 grit
2. Put 2-3 coats of uro clear on the parts before pinstriping
3. color sand uro smooth
4. use HOK with catayst and reducer as suggested
5. let striping sit for a few days
6. Lightly color sand stripes
7. Final top coat
8. color sand and buff

If I'm wrong somewhere, let me know.

 

[Burnt]

I use one shot. I use a little mineral spirts to thin with, a rag with mineral spirts on it for mistakes, wet sand before I strip,
let it dry for a day or two then clear coat wet sand and buff. I have never sanded the strips. I have use HOK clear and chroma base clear. I would not use lacqure clear, I think it would wrinkle the one shot. I am posting a picture of a tank I did that way.

 

[dego red]

gchagrin, do not sand before striping. If you need to remove some striping and the part is sanded, the striping color will get into the sand scratches and you will not see it untill you clear. Lighly scuff after the striping has cured. To remove a mistake I use wax and grease remover as it won't attack the clear. Just my $0.02. red

 

[ezrider]

i disagree on the last post , one of the reasons to sand is to flatten out theflames edges. if you worried about the stripping colors getting into the sand marks just go back after all the stripping has been completed ans touch up with the sand paper if you have any doubts about the clenliness of the project also if catylist has been added to the stripe paint over night will do on the wait period before clearing

 

[dego red]

Ezrider, I put outlines on after the flames have been flattened out and a coat of clear applied. After striping I then add more clear to bury the stripes. Sorry if there was confusion there. red

 

[ezrider]

Sorry it just seems like a extra step that isnt really necessary.