Repaint Questions

[Madferraristi]

I have a 1938 Ford Sedan on which I want to tweek the paint.

The car was painted Black about 25 years ago using good old Synthetic Enamel. The finish is in excellent condition except for the Hood and three of the Fenders which have minor damage. Since this is my Wifes car, she wants to add a little pazazz without spending my kids inheritance. I have an idea that I want to run past some experts.

It is quite common (and a pretty good look) to paint the fenders on these cars a different color from the rest of the body. Since Green is her favorite color, we're thinking a dark Green (more than forest) for them. My concern is that the repainted Hood and the Fenders will have a far greater gloss and depth than the body.

This is my proposed procedure::
Remove the fenders to simplify the color break (have to install new beading anyway).
Strip, prime and prep the hood.
Repair and prep the fenders.
Lightly sand the entire car with (600 or ??).
Apply Black base to the Hood.
Apply Green base to the Fenders.
Apply Clear Coat to the entire car. (Water Base where I live)

Obviously my question refers to the idea of color sanding the body and Clear Coating it. Does anybody have any experience with an application such as this?

Any comments or advice??

 

[TAZ]

Welcome!

Since you are going to sand it and plan on reclearing, I would suggest adding a fresh coat of black base on it. No since in skimping since you already did the harder part. Probably a quart or two of black base will do the rest of the car. This way, even in certain lighting conditions, your black will be the same.

Also, I wouldn't 'lightly sand', I would sand until the surface is flat and completely dull. If you do end up recoating the black, you may want to go to a slightly coarser grit.

One thing you have to watch is that synthetic enamel 'might' lift or wrinkle on you since this was a cheap paint. Today's basecoats and reducers are pretty harsh.
The rest of your process sounds good.

 

[Madferraristi]

Welcome!

One thing you have to watch is that synthetic enamel 'might' lift or wrinkle on you since this was a cheap paint. Today's basecoats and reducers are pretty harsh.
The rest of your process sounds good.

Thanks for your response. The possibility of the Enamel lifting is my main reason for the mild sanding of the body and using an aqueous clear coat. I will try it first to be sure but if the fresh base should cause a problem then I may have to fall back on this procedure or strip the entire car.

 

[bondofreak]

Sealing first with a reduced black epoxy sealer might be a good option in your case.

 

[Wydir]

I am going to agree with the black sealer also. but the waterbased clear does have my attention. as far as I know there is no such thing as my system ( PPG Envirobase) is waterbased basecoat and I use a normal Solvent based Clear over it. What system are you using? do you have a part number for this waterbased clear?

 

[Wydir]

well now that I look at the Enviro system there is indeed a Waterbased primer EPW115 and also a Waterbased Clearcoat ECW8186 to bad I do not have a baking booth as this clear requires one

 

[TAZ]

Wow, didn't realize that it required a backing oven. Maybe it's just 'preferred' to have a heated booth.
I would think it would still dry without the oven. You may want to do a test and see how it dries without the heat.

 

[Wydir]

Well According to the tech sheet it says N/A for Air dry and the same for Infared drying only a bake cycle time and temp is given. I called the jobber about the Waterbased primer though no word back on that yet......