Saftey Help needed

[ratlover]

Ok......I know I need to get some respitory protection and I've only got one set of lungs and at 22 I dont need to die or be hooked to a resporator for the rest of my freaking life but 500-1000$ for a supplied air is a hard pill to swallow. I know what I should do but I keep thinking that a grand will buy alot of cases of beer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

1. So I come to trying to get buy as cheap as possible. I have heard that with the proper fit and the proper filters at fullface mask will protect you fine....there just isnt much margin for error so OSHA wont say they are ok to use. Plus at 100$ for a mask and then 20$ or so for the filters(that only last 8 hours from the time you open the package) the cost of filters over the long haul even for a hobbyest will get fairly expensive. So I'm thinking this aint really the way to go right?

2. Next comes to just buying the bullet and getting the SAS supplied set up from toolparadise for 500$. Again 500$ will buy alot of beer and wouldnt I really want a hose longer than 50' especially if I will be painting large things like dumptrucks? If so hows the smaller compressor going to handle the 100' line?

3. Ok......cobble something together.......I'm a SCUBA diver and have tanks and all that good stuff and I could run around sealed up with a tank on my back and could get the tanks filled easy enough for cheap(like 4 bucks a whack) Now I'm running around with a big old hunk of aluminum straped to my back.....that sounds like fun but atleast I dont have to worry about another freaking hose.

4. Keep borrowing the supplied air system from work but then again using a sandblasting helmut and painting is a big PITA I have found. Maybe just steal the compressor and buy a mask. They use the same compressor that all the SA systems use. Ok, 150$ and I'm in buisness but now I gota borrow the damn compressor everytime.

5. Next I come to the last and right now the best option I think. SAS makes a filter deal to use a regular old compressor and be able to breath off it. 330$ and I'm in buissnes! http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-6834&category=databaseDescript&maxhits=5&keywords=SAS2001-01 My compressor would have a H2O trap before hand and I would buy a new line. Any idea if this thing works? I know that for this system to be effective(or any one for that matter) the compressor would have to be drawing fresh air. Wouldnt help if it sucking air from the paint booth ot from next to a cars tail pipe.

Thoughts/oppinions/advice. TIA

 

[flamethrower]

Thanks for the link. I might go that way too. The mask style with filter cartridges wont keep the iso-cyanates out of your system. You will hear that you can shoot catalyzed paint with one of those masks and be ok. If you were only shooting 1 car and that was it then I agree. But if you are going to paint often, you need to get an air supplied system. iso-cyanates build up over time. You will be going along good for quite a while and then BAM, yer dead. The doc's will say that your organs were that of a 80 year old when they cut you open to look see what caused this young man to die. Think about it. You won't need money for beer after they plant yer butt. Drink cheap beer for a while until you pay off the air supply system. I'm going to do more research on the link you gave, it looks interesting. Thanks again.

FT

P.S. Have a cold cyber one on me... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[G0rdyb1ker]

so what is everybody else here using I use the face mask with auto paint rated filters and change them every other job(only doing bike tanks & fenders). According to the health and safety over here they are fine to use and offer enough protection..then again I'm not painting every day and I use waterbased base coat with standard primer & cc

Gordy

 

[LudicrousSpeed]

I own a fresh air system, I bought it used after the guy used it twice and needed money.

What about Ebay???????

I wouldn't risk the respirator if you are doing stuff as large as Dumptrucks.........

 

[ratlover]

Well I was actually most interested in # 2 and # 5 but figured I would bounce all the availabe options I could think of off you guys. I agree that # 1 is to failure prone......I believe that under ideal conditions even the realy bad [censored] can be ok but the fit and everything has to be perfect. The filters only last for a short period of time and that jacks up the cost. The nice thing is the initial cost and the fact you dont have another freaking hose to deal with.

I kinda know what 2 is about but am liking #5 if it is workable.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/2idea.gif I got an idea FT......you buy the system and use it and if I dont hear back from you for awhile then I will know it aint safe

When i buy a FF mask I will try to get one that I can swap between supplied air and filters so when I'm doing sanding work I dont have to be freaking teathered like a dog on a leash. I know I'm going to end up forgeting about the hose or having it get caught under a tire and end up on my ass when my line runs out.

I'm going to try to email SAS and see what they say, they are at sassafety.com if you guys want to check out thier site. Anyone else make filters for regular old compressor air?

 

[G0rdyb1ker]

If you are worried about Iso's(I know I am) try Transtars 2K Iso free primer, I have just used it and it works fine for me. They also have a roll it primer which would reduce airborne particles. I have contacted transtar to see which of there clear products has the lowest Iso's

Gordy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif

 

[ratlover]

SAS\'s reply

Here is what SAS sent me on thier little filter dealy.....What do you guys think? I am probably going to end up with them unless something changes.......

They answer............

Hi Philip,

Let's see if I can tackle all these questions for you.

The Pure Air is made for professional auto painters. As in the instructions
you should have a high quality water/oil filter mounted on the wall. This
assures good air quality, it will remove oil, water, and particles. Do not
use your typical cheap $10.00 water trap. High quality filters can be found
for a good price on toolparadise.com. The Pure Air filter contains a
universal respirator carbon that filters a multitude of gases and vapors and
works in conjuction with your wall mounted filter to deliver grade "D" air.
The filter will also change to a pink hue if there is water in the unit. You
would then need to change the filter immediately. The unit can handle up to
300 PSI. The replacement filters list for $88.70 and should be changed at
the first sign of taste or smell of any odor. If your air is very clean you
will only need to change your filter twice a year. Our masks that you hook
up to it are all constant flow respirators not pressure demand. Constant
flow respirators are also considered positive pressure.

One of the greatest features of our respirators is that they are easily
converted to an APR cartridge filter mask. Simply unscrew the down tube and
screw on your desired cartridge and prefilter setup.

Rest assured that no matter where you purchase your Pure Air unit, SAS
Safety will warranty the product from any defects. Toolparadise.com is an
online distributor that seems to have very aggressive prices.

Hope this helps, your welcome to share all info.

Sincerely,
Ken Watson
SAS Safety Corp.

I write back....

>
>Thank you for getting back to me. I am kinda concerned about the filter
>itself. It looks kinda small. Its just something that straps to your belt
>and is about the size of a soda can right? I assume the filter's life is
>based on how dirty of air it is filtering but how many hours will it filter
>before its recommended that they are changed. How much are replacement
>filters? My compressor will have a H2O trap. I assume the only thing that's
>"bad" in air outa a regular compressor is the oil that may sneak by and
>that's what you guys are going after. I'm sure some of the larger buggers
>and larger particulates that would probably do more damage to the regulator
>in the mask. I am most interested in the Opti-fit mask I believe. Its an on
>demand type regulator that is positive pressure right? And its fairly easy
>to change it over to standard filters if I were to want to use it to keep
>sanding dust outa my lungs/eyes but didn't want to be running around with a
>hose. Whats the max inlet pressure for the filter set up? I assume it takes
>the high pressure from the compressor and regulates it down so you can
>pretty much run any length of air hose and get away with it. Sorry for the
>length but I do appreciate all your help. I was planning on buying from
>toolparadise.com They are and "official" dealer right, I just want to make
>sure I'm buying from an official source so I don't have a problem with
>warrantee stuff? Thank you
>
>And some guys I talk to on the net are really interested in this set up
>too......do you mind if I post your guys response on the net? I think it
>would be helpful to them
>
>Philip
>
They write.....

>Philip,
>
>The pure air system is made for automotive painters in mind. Your
>compressor
>needs to be able to deliver enough air for your spray gun plus your mask.
>Respirators use 4 cfm of air while a hood requires 6 cfm. Add to that the
>volume your spray gun uses. As a precuation I always recommend at least
>10%
>over the figure you get.
>
>Hope this helps. You can call us at 800-262-0200.
>
>Sincerely,
> SAS Safety Corp.

 

[rex]

Re: SAS\'s reply

OK,I never followed the OSHA stuff so I'll be the dumbass to ask,just how low is 'grade D' air?I remmember when I was a kid in school D's were a "I skated by on this but I'm gonna catch $*!* for it" deal,I like the sounds of C or B better.

 

[flamethrower]

Re: SAS\'s reply

Ok, Here's what some wasted time searching the net found about air "grades".

I found the following grades:
Medical Grade ~ don't ask...

Grade D has:
19.5-23.5% Oxygen
Hydrocarbons < 5mg/M3 (Oil Mist)
Carbon Dioxide < 1000ppm
Carbon Monoxide < 10ppm

Grade E has:
20-22% Oxygen
Hydrocarbons <.1mg/M3 (Oil Mist)
Carbon Dioxide < 500ppm
Carbon Monoxide < 2ppm

So I guess Grade D is good enough for us painters but not good enough for SCUBA divers. Cause I found the Grade E info on a NAUI SCUBA site.

Now, all this research has made me thirsty... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drink.gif

FT

I forgot to tell ya... There is no grade A, B, or C

 

[ratlover]

Re: SAS\'s reply

yeah......but you still passed with D's so its all good

One reason that air for SCUBA divers needs to be so clean is as preassure increases what ever you are breathing will absorb into your blood at a higher amount. corbon monoxide might be ok at levels of 10 ppm(I dont know if it is?) but under pressure its effects will go up. Its why you cant actually breath pure oxygen under 30 feet or so because it will send you into oxygen toxicity.

Wether D is safe enough??? I dont know but I would assume in todays sue happy world they wouldnt advertise something as safe to breath and all that jive and advertise it as grade D if they knew grade D was unhealthy. Besideds.........I bet even grade D is better than 99% of the crap I breath on a daily basis /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/freak.gif

Now if it actually gets it to grade D I guess is another concern? Like I said to them though......the only thing I see as being "bad" about compressor air is the oil vapor and I would think that would be easy to cut out.

Hopefully my thinking aint flawed and I dont end up dead /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crap.gif