Hello I'm new to the forum and painting but it interests me and I'm keen to learn. I have only done this to 3 panels on my car, I block sanded the original finish with 80grit and then primed with 2k high build primer with a 2mm nozzle/needle 2 coats. I noticed the next day I could slightly see sand scratches so I guide coated and attempted to final sand with 600grit but its gonna take forever.. I thought about blocking with 220 and then reprime reducing it 10% which it says on the tech sheet to get it to flow better then just wetsand for paint. Would this be my best option? Reason I started with such a course grit cause I thought the courser grit cuts straighter. The car is pretty straight, no dings just some slight waves on the doors which I cant even feel. They dont need filler just a good block sand but I thought starting with 220grit would just ride the waves and not cut it straight. As for the rest of the car if I block it with 220 will it be sufficient enough to give me a good finish. Some advice would be great thanks
Sand scratch problem
- Thread starter phil
- Start date
Welcome,
You are correct, the coarser grade will cut straighter, but jumping from 80/prime to 600 wet is too much of a jump.
What you should do is 80 grit it, then 180, THEN prime. Then you can 320 dry and then wetsand with 800 or 600 if needed.
Your guide coat should be after the first prime.
You are correct, the coarser grade will cut straighter, but jumping from 80/prime to 600 wet is too much of a jump.
What you should do is 80 grit it, then 180, THEN prime. Then you can 320 dry and then wetsand with 800 or 600 if needed.
Your guide coat should be after the first prime.
Thanks for that taz, I will do that with the rest of the car. Last thing I want in my paint job is sand scratches. I'm possibly going to be using house of kolor so if I use a sealer would 400 wet be fine for my finish sand on my primer before shooting sealer and base? Also was a bit worried about not getting the sealer to lay down nicely thats why I was thinking about skipping sealer finish the primer with 600 wet then go straight to basecoat.
Be sure and put that KS sealer on thin. Normally I over-reduce it just a bit. Then I put on about 2-3 coats. I would definitely suggest putting a sealer on. Mainly so you have a consistent colored groundcoat that your base will go over. This really does not prevent scratches showing through the base, so do a good job on the prep. By the way, you haven't mentioned what the base color will be. Solid colors you can get away with a little more than pearls and the lighter metallics.
There are so many nice colours its to hard to pick. I want to paint something that has a bit of forgivness, last thing I want is streaking.I have studied the house of kolor tech sheets a fair bit and im leaning towards one of the kbc colours... I have been told to stay away from the uk candys unless u really know what u are doing. Was either gonna go with the teil, tangerine or apple red. According to the tech sheet u can apply the kbc over the sealer. So was thinking about using the metallic silver sealer and mix in the appropriate kk (kandy concentrate) depending on what colour I pick. I thought by tinting it, itwould make it a little bit easier when applying the kbc. Whats your thoughts? I really dont care what colour just something thats not gonna be to hard to apply and has a bit of wow factor. I like the designer pearls to. Thanks
chopolds
Member
The kbc is really meant to be almost a 2 stage paint. Looks like the candy colors, but isn't 3 stage. So you probably shouldn't put it over the metallic sealer. White is the recommended base, so white sealer is good. The kbc's are more opaque than tranlsucent, so the metallic sealer would get mostly covered up by the kbc coats, so you might have more problems with even coverage doing it this way. Either use the real candy or kbs over white or light color sealer. If only doing a motorcycle, as opposed to a whole car, the candy is easier to get even. A whole vehicle is where you need experience, good gun control, and good spray habits (speed and pattern)
Are you sure you aren't thinking of the PBC Shimrin colors. I was thinking these go over white, while the KBC candies go over the metallic color of your choice.
I don't use the KBC's so not for sure on this. I do use the PBC colors, and I know they recommend white, but I normally use a lighter gray
I agree though, bit you want some real depth, use the real candies.
chopolds
Member
KBC, Kandy base coat. These paints are substitutes for HOK's real candy paints. They truly are 2 stage, but they recommend putting them over white for a truer brighter color. They match the colors of the real candies they are named after, but lack the depth, as there is no transparent layer over them. they are relatively opaque, at least compared to real candy, I never put them over a metallic base or sealer, but I'm sure they would block out the metallic underbase with a few coats.
I've used it, but dont' really like it, as it can't compare with the real deal. You 'can' cheat with it, and spray the real candy over it, and get a bit of depth, but then it looks similar to the OEM tristage paints, tinted clear over a pearl base of the same color. It does darken the color with every coat of candy, though. Still not like real candy.
I've used it, but dont' really like it, as it can't compare with the real deal. You 'can' cheat with it, and spray the real candy over it, and get a bit of depth, but then it looks similar to the OEM tristage paints, tinted clear over a pearl base of the same color. It does darken the color with every coat of candy, though. Still not like real candy.
Are you sure the KBC's go over white?
I just don't see where HOK recommends that you spray the KBC over a white basecoat (BC26).
All I see shown on their color charts are two examples of each KBC. One shown over a solid black and another color (SG). I don't see any over them shown over white or any mention that they recommend they need to be painted over white.
In fact, black is the color that seems to be recommended more than any since all chips are at least shown over a black base (BC25)
The only thing I can think of is you are thinking of the PBC (Pearl Base Coats) or the SG (Shimrin Graphic paints) which are to be sprayed over a white base (BC26). See third pic. They (HOK) do recommend that those paints to be sprayed over white.
Or, unless when you say "they recommend", you are referring to someone other than Valspar/House of Kolor which makes the paints.
You can read the notes HOK has on their color chip chart after the KBCs
I just don't see where HOK recommends that you spray the KBC over a white basecoat (BC26).
All I see shown on their color charts are two examples of each KBC. One shown over a solid black and another color (SG). I don't see any over them shown over white or any mention that they recommend they need to be painted over white.
In fact, black is the color that seems to be recommended more than any since all chips are at least shown over a black base (BC25)
The only thing I can think of is you are thinking of the PBC (Pearl Base Coats) or the SG (Shimrin Graphic paints) which are to be sprayed over a white base (BC26). See third pic. They (HOK) do recommend that those paints to be sprayed over white.
Or, unless when you say "they recommend", you are referring to someone other than Valspar/House of Kolor which makes the paints.
You can read the notes HOK has on their color chip chart after the KBCs
chopolds
Member
You're absolutely right in what HOK recommends now, Taz. I haven't looked at any tech sheets in a long time, as I use the same stuff over and over. IIRC, what I said might just be very old instructions, when it first came out. Again, haven't used it in a long time, and the only time I did, was with Pagan gold, which would have been WAY too dark over a black base. I'm still surprised they would recommend it over a metallic base, or sealer, though.
slickpaint
New member
You got that right Taz, I just got burned on a gold color... it seems if you sand vertical here, and horizonal there, the flakes will lay different. I'm haveing to repaint a cover my assistant thought was prepped. I'm using a cleaning paste to even the new surface and holding a procedure meeting this morning too!
Always charge a little more for those lighter color metallics. It always takes a little more prep. Gotta work the grits all the way through. I normally do a quick scuff with 600 grit for the lighter color metallics. BUT, of course when you work you way backwards. You have to eliminate all the 80 grit scratches with 180, all the 180 scratches with 320, then scuff with 600 and it will be ready for a light metallic