Sand scrathes

[issors]

This is mostley on the sides of motorcycles fenders,I use 1500 and 2000 sand paper before rubbing the fender out,they look great but if you catch the right angle of the fender you can still see sand scrathes.I do use the foam pads with 3m rubbing compound for taking out 1500 sand scrathes,then I use a maching glaze follow up with hand glaze.Should i switch over to a more agressive compound,wool pad,Ive been using HOK 35 clear,If im using clear from ppg I dont have this problem.Any suggestions.
Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif

 

[trickminis]

[ QUOTE ]
Ive been using HOK 35 clear,If im using clear from ppg I dont have this problem

[/ QUOTE ]

Hehe... I think you answered your own question!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif

 

[Jim]

After it sets awhile,HOK clear in known to buff hard meaning you have to apply some pressure.If the scratches are in the clear,they will come out!

 

[TAZ]

Jim's right...
HOK is harder to buff versus PPG. I usually crosscut the sides of the fenders. Meaning, I will go at 45 degress one way, then go 45 degree the other way. I also *try* to use only 2000 on the sides of the fenders.

You *have to* get all the scratches with the 5936. If you don't, you are just hiding them with the black foam pad glaze (5996).

 

[shaunboy]

I use 3m perfect-it111 rubbing compound for removeing 2000rit scratches.If i 2000 sand a 1/4 to a whole panel.....after I compound it , I quickly degrease it to remove the compounds oils that hide the sanding marks ... then rebuff anything they may have been missed. then machine glaze ...then hand glaze.
I hope my New Zealand terminology make sense.

 

[issors]

Thanks JIM, SCOTT, AND SHAUNBOY,
yOUR INFORMATION HAS BEEN HELPFUL,,

 

[rex]

Yeah,if the clear isn't 'fresh' it's nothing to have to double buff with the finer compounds.One way to get around it is use a fine wool pad for the first buffing to lose the scratches and then go back over it quick with a foam pad and the same compound.