I sprayed in the garage the other day and got a ton of dust in my clear.I decided to try sanding it with a my DA,I got the Hook it 2 stuff including backing and interface pads along with Mirka 1000 and 1500 grit.My problem is, buffing out the 1500 scratches from the DA are almost impossible.If I go back over it by hand with 1500 imperial,they come out,What's up with that?This is on a black b/c job.I used to hand sand with 1200 then 2000 but found 1500 saves time and have had good results.Do I need to do something differant when useing the DA?I'm about ready to 600 and reclear the damn thing!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/headbutt.gif
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Sanding clear with a DA
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
T
TAZ
Guest
Jim,
I always found the the DA scratches were always harder to buff out versus good ole' wetsanding scratches. Don't know why...possibly the rating systems are different or just the effect of an air tool has on the painted surface, versus straight line scratches.
I used to use 2000 to wetsand, but just went to 1500 *as long as the paint was fairly fresh*!!! If they are older than about 4 days, I use 2000
If you have quite a bit of clear on the parts, I would just sand them with 2000 quite a bit to get rid of the DA scratches...then again, if you're dust is light colored over the black, then of course, you should probably respray it (I'm sure know you know this already though).
You may want to try a different compound/pad setup. Maybe it's not coarse enough...
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
I always found the the DA scratches were always harder to buff out versus good ole' wetsanding scratches. Don't know why...possibly the rating systems are different or just the effect of an air tool has on the painted surface, versus straight line scratches.
I used to use 2000 to wetsand, but just went to 1500 *as long as the paint was fairly fresh*!!! If they are older than about 4 days, I use 2000
If you have quite a bit of clear on the parts, I would just sand them with 2000 quite a bit to get rid of the DA scratches...then again, if you're dust is light colored over the black, then of course, you should probably respray it (I'm sure know you know this already though).
You may want to try a different compound/pad setup. Maybe it's not coarse enough...
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
Yeah,for some reason it's tough to remove.I have some of the 3M 1500 but I still have a whole box of it months later.What I do is knock it down with 1500-2000 by hand,then hit it with the 3000 Trizact on the interface pad.You can see if you got out the handsand marks easily sinse they're straight lined marks and the Trizact buffs out real fast.Of course I'm not buying the stuff but the extra time it takes to DA it down is made up by the fact it buffs out in 1/3 the time.Forget the Trizact polish too,just use a fine compound like Finnesse or Perfect It for a fast cut and hit it with polish as normal(you still need to do the polish in the Trizact procedure anyway).As Scott said,the longer you wait the more work it is.
Thanks Guys,I think I'm gonna just reclear.This time I'm putting up plastic.Garage painting is so fun!I'll have a booth in a few months,or at least we'll start building it.If it wasn't for the dust,it came out great.It's a jet black 74 Monte.The owner,loves it and can't see what I'm talking about but,It's an example of my work and I want it perfect.