Sanding / Rust Pitting

[Bread]

I've got a project in the form of a 1971 Scout II. It's been in my family for almost 30 years, and now it's in my hands. But it needs a lot of work. I'm already handy with tools and have been doing my own suspension and engine work for years. But bodywork/painting is new to me. I got some equipment. Body hammer kit, air compressor, paint gun, bondo, etching primer, body file, the basic stuff. Now I'm starting with the sanding, but I can see problems already. I'm removing these big rust spots, but as you can see the problem goes deep. I used 80 grit paper to knock off the big chunks of rust, but I can't get these rust pits clean. Is there a product / tool I can use to clean out these areas?

 

[rex]

The ideal way is to cut it out and weld in new metal but it depends on the severity and where it is.I've had great luck with a product called Osrho (or another version called Phospho).Try doing a search using the word 'rust' and use the broadest search type to include all posts made.There's been a few discussions about a year back that I remember typing a small book on the subject with a few people.If you don't find anything to answer your Q just post another one.

 

[crazycuda]

personally i would be using 36 grit to remove the rust, sometimes using a wire wheel on a drill (very carefully) will clean out the rust pits. Navel jelly works good on some rust removal also.
Por15 makes a product that is also for sealing rust. then you just do your body work prime paint . I have never used it but some of the local show car guys swear by it.

 

[ezrider]

i have one of those small spot sand blasters i use to clean up small rust spots. like Rex said cutting out and replacing is best, sand blasting comes in second. if you have a bunch of rust you might wanna give it to some one who specializes in media blasting. use caution when picking your blaster, price shop i mean. there is a franchise around me that wanted to charge $150 top strip a complete set of bike tin when i can have a local guy whos main thing is raw iron lawn furnature charge me only $20 - $30 for the same work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yay.gif

 

[Ultra Al]

Another source for rust treatment products is the Eastwood Company. They have a web site. Al

 

[Bread]

Hey, thanks for the advice folks. Sorry my picture didn't come out. I need to find a page to host pictures for free since my little web page didn't seem to like that.

The rust on this truck is extensive. I certainly will have to cut and weld in new metal in several areas. But there is also a lot of surface rust in small patches ranging from 2" diameter to 6" diameter. They don't go too deep, just enough to leave small craters that the sandpaper can't reach. I have a sandblaster, but it's messy. I think the wire-wheel is a good start, followed by the chemical treatment. I just want to make sure every little molecule is treated so that I don't have any bubbles popping up after the finish is applied. Thanks for the adivce on the chemical treatment.

One last question. Where do I get the correct metal material for patching the rust areas that need cutting out? I have no clue what gauge this bodywork is. Quite thick from what I see so far. It's an old truck.