Sanity check for a newbie

[Gunner]

I've got a black Shadow 750 Spirit that I want to do flame job on. I'm thinking Aluminum/White Pearl similar to job 133. I wanted to consolidate some info. Here's my take on things so far where they differ from the how-to page:

- Since my fenders are in good shape, I don't need to strip the paint. I should sand the tank with 600 grit wet and the front and rear fenders with 800-1000 grit wet. After that, simply proceed as in the how-to section. No need to seal the plastic or put on an adhesion promoter, since I haven't gone down to the bare plastic (I'm assuming Honda actually painted the plastic, how do I know for sure?).
- Use an HVLP sprayer borrowed from my father to put down a black base coat.
- Put down coat of clear and wet sand it since this will be my first flame job and I want the "wipe off" option.
- Use an airbrush and spray around the edges of the masked area with Aluminum/White pearl mix, since I don't want solid flames, but rather like those in the above referenced job.

After that, finish up according to the how-to. Did I get it straight?

Two more things:
- What would it look like if I put down black pearl after masking the flames, then the white/aluminum pearl at the edges? Would the black pearl areas of the flames be noticeable enough to be worth doing?
- I want to paint a small image of Dennis the Menace inside a white oval on the back of my black helmet. Scuff the whole thing with 800, spray adhesion promoter on the oval area since it's molded, prime it since it's black, paint the image using stencils made from masking film, then clear the whole helmet? Sound right?

Thanks in advance.....

DG

 

[BonesFX]

You can get away with 600 grit on everything. Make sure you DEGREASE everything before you start sanding.

Base Black and clear then wet sand with 600 or higher.
Layout your flames... and mask

I just did one like you described except I used white pearl and silver pearl.
1st I sprayed pearl white with just a touch of silver in it (white pearl will reflect the color of the base - in this case making it black pearl).
2nd - I came in with my airbrush with silver pearl to fad the edges.
Remember when you're shooting "ghost-flames" a little goes a long way. I could barely see the white and silver pearl that I shot on (only 2 dust coats) until the clear was put on. The clear will make what you think isn't there really jump out at ya -- You might wanna try a test panel when you mix your pearls -- just have some clear mixed up and shoot in on after you do your "art" to see your results --
Good luck!!! -- Bones!~

 

[Gunner]

Thanks for the response, Bones. A couple of follow-ups:

- What brand of paint did you use and was it a pearl base coat or the dry pearl?
- Did you use a 1 to 1 mix of white to clear coat and the same ratio of silver to clear like it says in the how-to?

I've never done the pearls before, so I'm clueless on using them.

 

[BonesFX]

I used Hok's Shimrin Black Base - and UFC-35 for the final clear (4 coats)
For the Pearls I used Hok's silver pearl (dry) and a PPG (dry)White pearl (Little tip here: When I buy my pearls from my PPG Jobber, he lets me buy in small quanities - I stole some little tupperware 2oz. cups and lids from my wife and he filled them up - I have about 8 different dry pearls and I didn't have to go to the bank to pay for it). I mix the dry pearls into the HOK Intercoat clear reduced 50%. If you want specific measurements I really can't give them to you I kinda mix on the fly - But - I mixed up the Intercoat clear and reduced it 50% and had 6 oz. Then with my trusty measuring device in hand - I scooped out 2 "tips" of a thin screw driver of the white pearl and just a bit of the silver -- for my airbrush I mix the intercoat clear with twice as much reducer (2 parts reducer - 1 part intercoat) I use these nice little bottles from coast airbrush that hold about 4 oz. and mix in 1 tip of silver and shake vigorously!!! Sprays through my Iwata HP-C great and its got the .2 tip on it -
Remember that with the dry pearls that less is more - You will spray the stuff on and swear that there isn't enough there - -STOP spraying right then!!! Like I said in my other post - -do a test panel and keep measurements of everything from the pearls to your gun setup and distance to airpressure... It's really not that hard - and the thing about "custom painting" is even if you screw it up a little - people will never know -- Good Luck -- Bones!~

 

[Gunner]

You rock, Bones......Great info for me to get started with some test panels......

Anybody else got some info on the helmet painting portion of my post?

DG

 

[BonesFX]

Sorry - I totally forgot about the other question.

Hit the whole helmet with 600-800 after you degrease it. Sometimes I'll tape up the rubber if I can't remover it, so that I don't scratch the hell out of it. There should be no need for promo adhesive or primer. I'm not sure what technique you're using with the stencils, but I would start with the background filling it in with white for instance (using an airbrush) then move to the next obvious color to fill and so on - then throw the clear on. I have a client that wants a skull on his rear fender that matches the color of the flames (Bright-Metallic-Puke Green) I'll do the flames first and then layout the skull on transfertape, shoot in the green, then using my airbrush with super reduced black and start to build up my detail, then grab my Micron and finish the detail - Ok - skulls are a little easier than a lot of other stuff - -but they look killer!! -- Peace Bones!~

 

[imported_Allen]

I have recently aquired an airbrush and I plan on trying some graphics. my question is what is the transfer tape you mentioned above? I been reading alot trying to learn as much as possible before I get started. thanks for the help!

 

[BonesFX]

Transfer tape is what vinyl sign guys use to transfer their vinyl art or lettering to the object that its being applied to - Vinyl comes in rolls where the vinyl is on top with the adhesive on the back - the vinyl has a "backing" paper on which needs to be removed before the art can be applied. They use what is called transfer tape which has a low tack adhesive on it. It comes in different widths. They will apply this to the top of the art and then peel of the backing paper thus leaving the art stuck to the transfer paper where they can apply it to the sign and then remove the tranfer paper - -

You can pick it up at your local sign shop or order it online from places like coast airbrush. I personally like the lo-tack kind. It won't leave any adhesive residue behind after you spray urethane paints over it -- Bones!~

 

[imported_Allen]

Thanks Bones! I will have to pick some to try it out.