Scott ? Rex? others? Sanding clear..?

M

Mac_Muz

Guest
Scott i found this you wrote:
"You can still get a very deep shine with enamel. If you want a show finish, the best thing you can do is to spray the clear on wet (You don't need to apply more clear then your supposed to), the wetsand and buff it. I personally recommend wetsanding with 1500-2000 grit. Make sure the clear is fully hardened before doing so. Normally this takes about 1-2 days. Really depends on the clear though."

Now I have 3 good coats of Dupont 496-00 clear with 483-78 activator that sat for 2 days, and sanded. I then shot a tack coat and 3 more coats, and all is pretty good... But there is a small amount of dust.

I felt I needed perhaps more clear to bury the up and downs of the stars and the red stripes were high. So now things are pretty level. This clear is thick like a primer...

I must wait a day of 2 to let it harden, but I want to mow down these dust hairs.

I have 2000 grit... well I have 600, 1000, 1200, and 2000 grits on hand. But i don't have a good buff, but a woolie one, and no compound of any type...

I have a so so machine to spin the woolie pad, and might take it to the auto supply store, but i am confused about pads and buffing compounds.

I read about black and yellow pads but don't understand. Partly the lingo is specialized, and I am not up on what is ment by the words.
The machine is 1 speed, for buffing fiberglass boats. It was my fathers. Some off brand, and I am thinking by hand for me might be better. Longer sure but less chance to burn the clear.... I am at a point I don't want to mess up again... can you tell?

Can this be spoken in common layman 1st timer please? Mac
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Basically, what I use now is a 3m velcro backing pad (3M #5718) that attaches to the buffer (no adapter needed), then I use a "white" 3M (3M #5737) foam pad to buff with and a "black" (3M #5725) to polish with to get out any minor swirls.

You can find the above at this site, as a reference. http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/list_products.cfm?cat=36

Other pads are available, this is just what I use.

As for the compounds,
I use Perfect It III compound (3M #5936). I use this with the white pad, then I switch to the black waffle pad (clean the surface first with soap and water), and use black foam pad glaze (I believe it is 3M part number 5997).
You can find all the above at the following url. http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/list_products.cfm?cat=40

I just listed the URL as a reference. I buy everything local.

Lately, I have been just using 2000 grit to wetsand the surface. If you have some larger ridges, or some minor orange peel, you might want to start with 1500 (use a soft block), then do a quick run-over with 2000.
You should also use a good buffer. Possibly you could rent one for a day.
Hope the above helps you out!

NOTE: in the "How-To, I mention using a yellow pad, this is a McGuire's pad, but I have since switched over since the backing pad was *attached* to the foam pad, so it was a pain in the neck to switch pads when I had to.
 
E

ezrider

New member
you can sand with 1500 or 2000 for buffing. go to the paint supply store, you will need a yellow pad for compound or a cutting cream( i recomend Strata ultra cutting cream made by Presta)then you will need a gray (egg crate style)pad for polishing (i recomend 3M machine polish)then get your self some hand glaze what ever you like best. all of this should cost about $100 or less. as far as hand rubbing, those days are gone. get the feel of your machine on somthing else than your almost completed paint job (try it out on an old car or some thing so you dont burn the paint you have worked so hard on)read the instructions on all of the products before starting any buffing. by the way you will also need a velcro backing pad for your buffer if you already dont have one. good luck
 
M

Mac_Muz

Guest
Thanks guys. I am going to make a list of this stuff.

I got a kick out of you EZ, what I like best thats a good one! LOL

How do I know what I like best. Thats like asking a guy from India how he like Chicago 4" thick steaks!

I dunno what I like best thats why I am asking. i don't want some cheap junk stuff at this point that I might pick out with a salemans. Oh sure they offer suggestions but they may not have any experience at all. If they are so good why are they selling stuff for 8 bucks and hour? Nope not me I am happy here and don't mind the wait one bit I get good info even if I don't always understand it the first time. If not for the dust in the clear right now you would swear it was wet. It looks deep. Sure there are mistakes if you get up to about a 16" but I can live with these. I am not a pro, and never will be. I wanted to save a few bucks and learn.

I don't want to start a career at 50 doin this, too hard of a job for me. I wouldn't last long enuff to learn to get really good. I can see this takes as much time as learning to spin a wrench well. I did that for 20+ years. About as close as I got to paint was wiring for guys that painted the wires. Do they still do that?

Those painters were lost with wiring whether or not it was painted.... LOL

Once I got stuck with a really old willies kaiser (like a big jeep) and the dash was custom stainless. Every single wire was bright yellow, even the grounds. The dash had gauges and looked like a commercial dish washer to me.

That willies ate batteries at night, and I was commissioned to fix it. Now if it had a few other colors it would have gone a bit faster with wiring, but I nailed it in about 3 hours. The tach was mis-wired and was running all the time. The funny part was when I went to hook up the cab lights (custom) and discovered the roof top was still in red primer! Mac
 
E

ezrider

New member
Mac, sorry i just assumed you al ready used a hand glaze, swirl remover ,detailer or polish to matain your previous paint. as long as it contains no wax or silacone so your new paint can cure properly. 3M, Meguiers there is a bunch out there. excuse my ignorance i some times forget that every one dosent do this for a living
wink.gif
 
M

Mac_Muz

Guest
No sorry needed.... that type of assuming happens in every field.... You have been working these thing so long that it become second nature. You guys can do this while talking, and maybe while sleeping. I really did laff!

But a guy like me looks off because a car backfires out front and I will burn thru to primer if buffing.

To give you an idea about what can be confusing to a newbie like me.

EZ you said this in the last post. "hand glaze, swirl remover ,detailer or polish "

This is out of context, but to show you what I mean...I think each of these items is a different thing. So I don't know if I need 1,2,3,or all.

Now I am doing 1 bike, and if I have something left over my car and or truck will be next, but the truck is going to be a rough job, just killing rust, and filling rust holes. Only good enough to get a sticker so I can go to the dump and plow snow, and take it to back roads for hunting and fishing.

My car matters more. It is old but I don't want another one. It will get a new fender, and a color change. It is mechanicly sound, and competitive on the road still. 85 Volvo 240 wagon turbo. Lots of small rust areas and a few holes, but I can gas weld up a storm, and fit flat sheet to form pretty well. (I make sterling silver "trade silver" for the years 1750-1840, and knives from files, and file decorative designs by hand on the tangs)

I might even repaint the same color on my wifes car time, weather, and money holding out. By same color here I mean the same as it is a cedar green, that was done about 5 years ago from sun baked Saab Maroon which looked like a flat red primer at that time.

This Saab is in great road shape, but that paint job did not take well. I did all the body work, and had a friend that said he could paint well shoot it. I was sorry about that right away.

The first shooting the car went to fish eye big time! The secone time what at first I thought was snow brush bristles some how got in the paint. It turns out these bristles are cracks in the paint.

After 5 years there are stone chips, and a rust in coming up in the corners of the doors down low, and the hood is rusting again where it is a common place for Saab to rust.

Back then I did everything I could to stop the rust with coatings, but salt and time are again taking a toll.

So that is everything we own and drive, and I don't want tons of extra materials hangin around.

I have never buffed or compounded paint. I have only waxed cars and used some Armor All paint sealer before. Those are all wipe on wipe off by hand with a rag.

So I can see I will soon be learning about a new aspect to paint care once the paint is on and dry.

Just so you don't panic.... I won't put anything on my bike for a few weeks in the way of wax, and will check here, when I think I want to do more than clear water rinse, or damp rag wipe...

Thanks Mac
 
R

rex

New member
Hey Mac.I'm not an expert or fond of buffing,so I'll let these guys lead you.I'm not familiar with the clear you used either.If it is enamel,sand it with no less than 1500 to level out what you need.My philosophy on enamels is the protective resins rise to the top,so if you're agressive sanding and buffing you'll remove too much.I don't know if the clear acts like color,but I've seen alot chalk out shortly afterwards.When you sand it,stay back 1/2" or so from the edge unless you need to lightly nip a dirt nib,and buff so the pad turns off the edge,not into it.That will burn it right now.Don't let them talk you into Superduty or coarse compound either,that stuff can imbed the grit into the paint.
 
M

Mac_Muz

Guest
The bike is done... It is all one piece! I have to change fork oil, engine oil, and adjust the mirrors... i tried in the dark and drove a mile, to find the mirrors are out of wack...no biggie..

I was too beat to try to get a pic, but I will tomorrow in day light..... Oh I hope this doesn't chalk up and go cloudy... About when might that happen, and if it does strat again? Oh dear... Mac

no matter what Thank you ALL
 
M

Mac_Muz

Guest
So far 2 strangers have seen the bike. Last night when I was putting it back together...

I am not sure how I should take this? Both times iI was asked if it was a decal! Yikes! I slept in a bit , but will get a few pics up soon for the Yahoo Album incase anyone wants to see the whole bike. Mac
 
M

Mac_Muz

Guest
My camera won't do justice to the clear coat, but follow this link and you can see from about the begining to the end of 26 pics..... Warning we both are in the last pic!!! Gwyn is my adoring and adored wife...... Mac
 
P

Painter

New member
Hey Scott, ever try any of 3-M's new Tri Zact 3000 grit. This stuff is used with your DA just like the 1500 for your DA ( using a Hutchison of course) all others will destroy what your sanding. Takes a little longer but your buff time is cut by more than half. When your done with the 3000 it has a satin finish apperence and you could buff by hand, but who wants tooo!. Have been using the 3000 for about 5 months now and would not be with out it in my shop. Give it a try you'll like it. Also try the compund glaze combo from 3-M , don't know the numbers but can get em if you need them
sunglass.gif
 
T

TAZ

Guest
I had tried the 1500 at one time, but I found that the DA scratches were kind of hard to get rid of (versus 1500 wet). This was also when I was using Glasruit which buffs kind of hard anyway after a couple of days.

But I will definately check out the "Tri Zact 3000 grit".
Sounds like *very* fine sandpaper
shocked.gif

Thanks for the tip Steve!
 
R

rex

New member
Mac,that's one hell of a job you did and you should be very proud of it.Hell,I know 'painters' that couldn't come close to doing that.She really looks great.On the clouding thing,don't worry much about it.I threw it in for a FYI and don't think clear will react like color since it's pretty much all resin,but the info was worth telling.If by chance it does go,just reclear it.Excelent job man!
 
M

Mac_Muz

Guest
Thank you Rex, as well as your tips were usefull. I hope you find a place to help others as you did me. I guess that is a given, or you would not have helped.

This is a great site for help. I attempt to when I feel I can answer a question. Some folks are really short with newbies like me.

I bought a few books, but did not always understand what was ment... The jargon to a newbie can be like speaking in a foreign language.

Very soon I will be starting my truck and or my car, but 1 at a time...

The killer for me is not having my car, but needing to take the proper time to do a decent job. I don't need perfect, but semi respectable.

The truck I like to drive, but hate to fill up the 38 gallons of gas it takes to do that! it is a work truck too. I am thinking of doing it in a camo for hunting purposes, and to hide flaws.

I wonder where you get a gallon of 3 colors in 1? ;-) Mac
 
R

Ray Galetti

Guest
Hello Mac,
I viewed your pics, and thought you did a great job. I bet you can't wait until the next one. By the way, the pic of the shower, didnt you get a house full of fumes by painting in the shower?

Ray
bounce.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top