scuffing a clear?

[DarkAz]

Hi there...

Im about to venture into my first 2-pak spray job (on a "practice" tank) and have a few questions - the main one being: if I'm spraying a clear over a basecoat before I add details (e.g. flames) over it - what is the best method to "scuff it up"? a 600grit wet/dry? finer? courser?

thanks in advance - will post other queries as they arise (which Im sure they will)

john

 

[BDsbigZRX]

DONT scuff it! Just spray your base, let it flash for 10 minutes or so, and lay on your clear! I typically like to spray the base, then do all my graphics (or as much as I can) before spraying clear to seal it all in. Intercoat clear is also nice, it gives you about 12 hours to do your graphics over it.

 

[rex]

If you mean sand the clear,600-800 wet is fine and use a grey scotchbrite pad wet to catch the edges and nooks and crannies.You can use just the grey scuffy but you won't be leveling out any orange peel or dirtnibs so it must be perfect.If you want to spray a coat of intercoat clear over your base to protect it before doing your grafix you can just lightly scuff it with the grey scuffy if it dried too long and do your grafix on the intercoat,but don't screw up anything.It isn't forgiving to sanding or wiping off mistakes like topcoat clear.It's also a good idea to put a coat of intercoat clear over your grafix before clearing to lock down anything loose that might float around in the top clear.

 

[DarkAz]

thanks for the advice guys - yep I was referring to scuffing up my clear.. i.e:

1. spray black (in this case) base coat
2. spray clear (top coat)
3. scuff topcoat after leaving it for a bit
4. mask & spray graphics
5. spray final topcoat

hope this is corect - I'll be stripping, sanding & priming over the next few days to get it all ready

 

[rex]

Yeah man,you got it,just be damn sure you just level the clear and don't break through-that's why you scuffy the hard edges and such.Once this comes easy you can do the intercoat before grafix and not worry as much about a mistake.

 

[newbie]

rex,
I have a couple dirtnibs on my final clear and a semi hard edge on my artwork. You're saying I should use 600-800 over the whole piece and a grey scuffy on the nibs. What actually is a grey scuffy? What if I do break through to my kandy, will it screw it up? Sorry about sooooo many questions...............you have no idea how much help this board and you have been.
Thanks,
newbie

 

[LudicrousSpeed]

A grey scuffy is a grey Scotchbrite pad, you use it to get itno places that are difficult to reach with regular paper, like seams and cracks.

If this is your top and final coat of clear, I would not use 600, I would start with 1200. If this is prior to your final coat, then use 600.

If you sand through to the kandy, chances are you will screw it up before you realize it has happened.

 

[newbie]

Ludicrous,
I actually intended it to be my final clear, but since I'm not completely happy with it, I want to shoot additional coats. So I'll go with 600, which I'm hoping will take care of my problems.
Thanks

 

[newbie]

I picked up some 3M gray colored pads at Lowes, they call them #2 "Finishing Pads". I'll try them.
I realize some of my questions (o.k. maybe all of them) seem really stupid to a seasoned painter, but for a beginner they're quite important.
Thanks for everyone's patience.
newbie /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/foreheadslap.gif

 

[LudicrousSpeed]

Sounds like you've got the right ones...

No problem about the questions. We were all there at one time or another, some of us still are! Some of the things we take for granted aren't so simple to others.

 

[rex]

Thanx LS for clearing that up.
Newbie,I'm sure you have the right pad since 3M only makes a few colors.3M's part # is 7448 I think,7447 is the red one I know.They also have one a step finer than grey that is a gold/brown color I'm waiting to get out here in Podunk,I'll be switching to them most likely.A good trick when using the scuffy is to use it wet,it won't dig in as bad as a dry one.I just use a pump squirt bottle with a touch of soap like Dawn in it and spray a few pumps in the pad and scuff a small spot and dry it,then work your way around the part.If you sanded with a DA or dry paper going over that area will help pull the dust out of the sandscratches too.When you're all done wipe it down with a wet rag to remove any leftover residue and dry it as you go and you're ready for grease and wax remover.Don't rely on grease and wax remover to clean it because it's solvent based and won't pull all the sanding sludge off if it dried.Like LS said,don't break through the clear period,you'll have to start over.The dirtnibs will sand out easily with any grit paper from 1500 and courser,but if you don't think the edge will go away without breaking through just knock out 3/4 of it and reclear it.Some will dissapear as the clear flows out but any remaining edge can then be blocked with 1200 or so and a quick 2000 and buffed. I use 2000 most of the time but it won't level like 1200 or 1500 on a good flat paintstick for a block.