sg100
- Thread starter joryken
- Start date
hoss
New member
in my experience w/ sg100 or a polyurethane clear for graphix is; id use sg100.
i've used poly clear and i tried to lay a graphic over it and reclear. everything reacted and shriveled up that was under the second graphic. it takes longer for the poly clear to cure. you can't shoot poly-clear/ base/ clear w/o a fully cured clearcoat.
there are clears that cure fast, and i think some use them, but i'm new to painting and i think i'll just stick w/ the sg100 till i'm more experienced with other options.
Be sure to keep the sg100 thin. if you shoot it over your graphic use thin coats. in my experience any runs that could happen w/ sg100 it'll take the paint w/ it. it tries to chemically bond w/ the paint softens it and if you have a run everything goes w/ it.
i've used poly clear and i tried to lay a graphic over it and reclear. everything reacted and shriveled up that was under the second graphic. it takes longer for the poly clear to cure. you can't shoot poly-clear/ base/ clear w/o a fully cured clearcoat.
there are clears that cure fast, and i think some use them, but i'm new to painting and i think i'll just stick w/ the sg100 till i'm more experienced with other options.
Be sure to keep the sg100 thin. if you shoot it over your graphic use thin coats. in my experience any runs that could happen w/ sg100 it'll take the paint w/ it. it tries to chemically bond w/ the paint softens it and if you have a run everything goes w/ it.
hoss
New member
a good thing about the sg100 is that it'll soften your hard edges on taped layouts (like flames). the chemical reaction helps smooth them out a little i think.
I don't know if it's true w/ other paints. I use martin senior basecoat and when i spray the sg100 over it (house of kolor/martin senior mix. you're not suposto mix but hey, it's worked for me so far) it softens the lines. I've never used an other basecoats so i don't know if it reacts the same.
so just to be safe keep it thin like i said, and don't shoot the second coat till the sg100 is completly ready for the second coat.
Hey guys, does sg100 have the same effect w/ other basecoats?
I don't know if it's true w/ other paints. I use martin senior basecoat and when i spray the sg100 over it (house of kolor/martin senior mix. you're not suposto mix but hey, it's worked for me so far) it softens the lines. I've never used an other basecoats so i don't know if it reacts the same.
so just to be safe keep it thin like i said, and don't shoot the second coat till the sg100 is completly ready for the second coat.
Hey guys, does sg100 have the same effect w/ other basecoats?
I know this goes against everything that's been said so far but I use PPG DC3000 over my base if I've got graphics to do. It's a speed clear that dries very fast. I used to use SG-100 but I can't tell you how many times that's come back to bite me. I've had problems when laying the final clearcoats over the finished parts. The reducer in the clearcoat reactivates the SG-100 and has caused wrinkling, gator skin, etc.
I rarely use it now and only in certain conditions. But that's me. Use what works for you.
There's nothing wrong with using a catalyzed clear to lock down your basecoat, and DC 3000 is inexpensive enough to use as a lock down. Plus, it needs no reducer.
Try the SG-100 and if it doesn't cause problems, fine. If it does cause problems, go to DC 3000 or any other clear.
Good luck,
Phil
I rarely use it now and only in certain conditions. But that's me. Use what works for you.
There's nothing wrong with using a catalyzed clear to lock down your basecoat, and DC 3000 is inexpensive enough to use as a lock down. Plus, it needs no reducer.
Try the SG-100 and if it doesn't cause problems, fine. If it does cause problems, go to DC 3000 or any other clear.
Good luck,
Phil
T
TAZ
Guest
Airart,
Guess you could use the fast drying clear, but you'll have to make sure you re-scuff before you recoat as this will harden, so your new clear will have something to bite into.
SG100 is a 'basecoat' so the clear will automatically bite into it without scuffing.
If we let it sit more than a day though, we will scuff it anyway.
Guess you could use the fast drying clear, but you'll have to make sure you re-scuff before you recoat as this will harden, so your new clear will have something to bite into.
SG100 is a 'basecoat' so the clear will automatically bite into it without scuffing.
If we let it sit more than a day though, we will scuff it anyway.
Hi Scott,
Yeah, I do scuff the clear before the final clearcoat whether it's catalyzed or SG-100. The problems I've had with SG-100 are always the same. The reducer in the clear reactivates the SG-100 and I end up with wrinkling, gator skin, or the graphics 'wander' and I lose the crisp edge, especially whites.
I know that many use and have no problems with SG-100 but I've wasted too many hours of work on 'redo's' to chance it. Besides, the DC-3000 is cheap enough to use as an interclear. I always final clear with PPG 2021.
Thanks,
Phil
Yeah, I do scuff the clear before the final clearcoat whether it's catalyzed or SG-100. The problems I've had with SG-100 are always the same. The reducer in the clear reactivates the SG-100 and I end up with wrinkling, gator skin, or the graphics 'wander' and I lose the crisp edge, especially whites.
I know that many use and have no problems with SG-100 but I've wasted too many hours of work on 'redo's' to chance it. Besides, the DC-3000 is cheap enough to use as an interclear. I always final clear with PPG 2021.
Thanks,
Phil