Sherwin Williams Finish 1 ?'s

[Nihil]

This is my first post, I've been tryin to find any info on mixing this paint, all I can find is the info directly from their site saying it's a 4:1 mix with no reducer, but I swear I searched this before and read somewhere that you can reduce up to 5%

I'm a noob, with this stuff, but I'm going to attempt my first painting sometime in the next couple months when it gets warm up here. I don't know much about this paints quality either, but I can get a gallon of the pure white and the hardener for 40 bucks with my discount and it's all that's available to me so I'm goin with it, it was either this or do a John Deere Blitz Black for roughly the same price, so I figured I might as well go with somethin that'll actually look nice, if done well.

I'm also wondering if anyone knows how long this paint will last, or if it'll chalk up or get weird from exposure to the elements, and if maybe I can put a decent clear over it to help with UV protection.

I've never actually painted, but we've always used Nason products, with good results, anyone have any ideas on comparison of these two? They seem similar in price...

Thanks in advance for any info...I'll be addicted to this forum for the next few months reading as much as possible ha! There's a lot of good info here and seemingly friendly people. Thanks again!

 

[TAZ]

Welcome to the Custom Paint Forum!

Sounds like you will be painting a single stage white color. When you say "comparison"...wasn't for sure what we were comparing. Nason and ?
I've sprayed hundreds of cars using the Fuller-O-Brian Nason white (and a ton more using the other Nason colors).
I started my painting career with Econo back in the early 80's. Along with Western, SuperMax, AmerFlint, BC (I used to call this Butchers Choice..lol), Limco....

Since your car is white, you should be all right with this. If it was a metallic, you won't get too much longevity out of the paint job.
Sure can't beat paying only $40 for it. I remember adding reducer, but that was many moons ago.
How long it will last...hmmm, really depends on how well you apply it and how well you take care of it.
Probably get 2 years maybe a tad bit more with just decent care.

Believe it or not, white is one of the more harder colors to paint because there is not much reflection off the paint when you are spraying. Plus, you have to have a very clean booth to paint in as you don't want your paint job to look like you threw a bunch of pepper on it!

Enjoy browsing and searching the forum!

 

[Nihil]

Welcome to the Custom Paint Forum!

Sounds like you will be painting a single stage white color. When you say "comparison"...wasn't for sure what we were comparing. Nason and ?
I've sprayed hundreds of cars using the Fuller-O-Brian Nason white (and a ton more using the other Nason colors).
I started my painting career with Econo back in the early 80's. Along with Western, SuperMax, AmerFlint, BC (I used to call this Butchers Choice..lol), Limco....

Since your car is white, you should be all right with this. If it was a metallic, you won't get too much longevity out of the paint job.
Sure can't beat paying only $40 for it. I remember adding reducer, but that was many moons ago.
How long it will last...hmmm, really depends on how well you apply it and how well you take care of it.
Probably get 2 years maybe a tad bit more with just decent care.

Believe it or not, white is one of the more harder colors to paint because there is not much reflection off the paint when you are spraying. Plus, you have to have a very clean booth to paint in as you don't want your paint job to look like you threw a bunch of pepper on it!

Enjoy browsing and searching the forum!

Yeah, single stage white, comparison was between a single stage of this Sherwin Williams with the Nason single stage paints I've used before.

I don't have any experience with actual spraying, but I've helped prep 4 cars, 3 of which were Nason single stage paints and they seem to turn out well, from what I've learned, it's all prep and all mixing that makes the job come out with good results. I know metallics/pearls are the harder ones to paint and I don't care much for them as far as looks go ha so single white is where it's at for me

I'm a car nut and detail/wax my cars routinely so care will be high for the paint.

The Sherwin paints are a 4:1 mix with no reducer but they have a "fish eye reducer" product, you can add up to 2/3rds to help get rid of fish eye, which seems odd they'd have that, but no reducer mixtures, I'd think they'd just give a mix ratio with a reducer, no?

So far my product list is this.

1g Single Stage paint
(1qt Hardener 65-85 in question)
1qt Hardener 60-70 (air dry only)
1g High Build DTM Primer
1qt Primer Hardener

I don't have the white urethane sealer available and I'm not sure if I need it, and the VOC Reducer I think I read somewhere that it can be added up to 5% which I'm thinking might be a good idea, to avoid fish eye or orange peel? I'm also questioning the hardeners, the 60-70 air dry only is a slow hardener then the other is a medium, but is that saying if I'm air drying (which I will be, I have no booth or way to bake the paint) I should use the slow rather than the medium? or is that totally dependant upon temps?

Thanks for the welcoming and for the response thus far!

 

[TAZ]

You should use the temp for the reducer and the hardener.
This helps the paint tack up along with flowing when you are applying the paint.

I would first start painting without the fish eye eliminator. If you find you are getting some, then add it.

Sometimes a paint brand will have the mixing ratios on the website. Sometimes they don't.
You can either do a Google search for mixing ratio for your specific paint, or you can call a local Sherwin Williams jobber, and they can let you know what it is.

 

[Nihil]

You should use the temp for the reducer and the hardener.
This helps the paint tack up along with flowing when you are applying the paint.

Just to clairify, you're saying, use the hardener according to temps, right?

Sometimes a paint brand will have the mixing ratios on the website. Sometimes they don't.
You can either do a Google search for mixing ratio for your specific paint, or you can call a local Sherwin Williams jobber, and they can let you know what it is.

The only info they have on mixing ratio is it's a 4:1, 4 parts paint to 1 part hardener, no reducer ratio is given and I'm gonna bet on it, that a sherwin employee would only know that much, but I swear, at one time, I googled for a couple days and came up with a person saying you could add up to 5% reducer.

I'm just wishing there were a proper mixing ratio that I could follow along with, that way any other problems would more than likely be caused by myself or equipment and not the paint, make sense?

Thanks for your help so far Taz

 

[Nihil]

Well, I found the other discussion someone had about adding reducer to this paint, there's the link

Acme Finish 1 clear coat and reducer • How to Paint Your Own Car, Auto Body Discussion Forum & Videos • AutoBody101.com

Another question I have, should I mix all the paint at once, or do just a half qt at a time? I was originally thinking, I want to remove all parts from the car and paint individually, but then I started thinking, if I'm mixing paint one piece at a time, I might have uneven results when the car is put back together. Thoughts/advice on this?

 

[TAZ]

Yea, see, some paints require reducers, some just hardeners (no reducers).
Also, some paints, the hardeners are temperature specific (i.e fast, medium, slow)

I was unsure what yours requires.

You shouldn't have any problems spraying one panel at a time and mixing a little at a time.
If you plan on using a sealer, but sure your sealer is about the same shade. i.e don't use a dark gray sealer one time, and a light gray sealer the next. This "might" change the shade of your white.
In fact, if you do plan on spraying a sealer, just use a white sealer.

 

[Nihil]

It wouldn't hurt if I DID use a reducer though, would it? There's a fast medium and slow reducer available, I was thinking of going with the medium, but after seeing the temps and the slow had "air dry" in parentheses, I'm not sure if that's what I need to use since I'll be air drying.

The recommended sealer is a white, but it's not available to me, so I might skip that, if it's okay? What are your thoughts on that?