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Geezer
Guest
I laid my Buell... well actually my f**king brother did
, is there any thing I could do besides buying a new tank and wind screen that a paint job can do?
Welcome Geezer.There is but the old saying still applies-you wreck it you buy it.If he won't make good post back and it can be cleaned up,but it won't look the same as original so you might as well pull the rest and paint it all with something trick.I know it's hard to tell family to face up but that brings up another old saying-you can ride my scooter as soon as I'm done ****** you're ol' lady.Let us know how it's gonna go and we'll get you set up if it's the usual family deal
G
Geezer
Guest
Thanks Rex for the reply - I guess the glass can be half full where now I have a reason to paint my bike and make it look bad a**
The idea doen't sound cheap either but I could start shopping around. Geezer.
I was wondering if you were coming back
.I'll refer to PPGs system since I know it.Painting will be like anything else but you'll need some DX103 plastic cleaner/anti static and DX(?)801 plastic primer.To fix the scratches wash the parts with warm soapy water.If there's flashing sticking off the edge of the scratches I trim it off with a razorblade.Take a piece of 240-320 and fold and stick down in the scratch to sand it,and 'V' it a little if it's narrow like a knife slice.Then sand the part with 600-800,I like the finer because plastic scratches exaggerate compared to paint.Wash it again with soap and water,then clean it with the 103.At this point you need some DP epoxy primer and you want to use the thinned mix not unreduced.I think it's 1-1-1/2,primer-catalyst-reducer.Spray a mist of the 103 over it,tack it off lightly,spray another mist of 103 over it,put a coat of 801 on and then spray the DP on it.When this is dry you can scrape some poly putty in the scratches and sand them smooth.Anywhere you break through the DP you want to **** a little more on the plastic and over the putty.If you finish sand the putty with 320 or so you wont need any other primers.Another filler for the scratches and cheaper is JB Weld believe it or not.It sands much easier and sticks like glue.Once the scratches are filled and covered with DP,all you need to do is scuff it up with a wet grey Scotchbrite or wetsand it.The scotchbrite will be easier not to break through to the plastic though.At this point I'd put the base color on.You can seal it first but since it's flexible plastic you want to keep the thickness as thin as possible to avoid cracking.Wait to buy the DP until you know what color you want to paint it though so you can get the closest color DP to keep the paint thin and ask them to look up the formula of the color you pick to double check it isn't a transparent color,some high metalics (the formula has lots of clear in it) and reds made with a certain red tint are extremely transparent.I can't remember which red tint it is though.Most of the time the formula has a note about transparancy or on rare instances a different reduction ratio.Reds and high pearl content colors are the most expensive,often twice or more than white or black.If you have the equipment or access to it you should be able to get all the materials for $300+/-.The hardners for the clear and DP are the killers since the smallest container is a qt.One reducer can be used in the DP,base and clear if you use the DBC basecoat,but the DBU basecoat uses a special reducer and costs more.Keep us up on what you're doing.Of course you don't have to use PPG either.