How do you minimize orange peel when spraying clear coat?My based sprayed great but I always had to sand alot when I did the clear.I layed it on fairly wet.Is it all about atomization/gun set up?What's the difference with set up from spraying base coat?I've been done with the paint for awhile now but,I went back and buffed it out better,I don't like my particular design anymore but it is very glossy with no peel,I was just wondering for my next job,Jim
spraying clear
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
S
shaunboy
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HI JIM
IN MY EXPERIENCE IT IS USUALLY THE TECHNIQUE THAT YOU APPLY THE CLEAR ,ALSO THE AIR TEMP CAN AFFECT IT
IF IT IS TOO HOT YOU NEED A SLOWER THINNER AND HARDENER.
AFTER PAINTING LITERALLY THOUSANDS OF JOBS OVER THE YEARS I STILL MIGHT GET A PEELY FINISH THAT IM NOT HAPPY WITH.THIS HAPPENS TO ALL PAINTERS NOW AND AGAIN.
TRY SPRAYING THE CLEAR ON A WET AS YOU POSSIBLY FELL SAFE WITH,BUT GIVE IT PLENTY OF FLASH OFF BETWEEN COATS
A SMALL RUN OR SAG IN THE CLEAR IS EASIER TO SAND/POLISH OUT THAN ORANGE PEEL ALL OVER THE PANEL
IN MY EXPERIENCE IT IS USUALLY THE TECHNIQUE THAT YOU APPLY THE CLEAR ,ALSO THE AIR TEMP CAN AFFECT IT
IF IT IS TOO HOT YOU NEED A SLOWER THINNER AND HARDENER.
AFTER PAINTING LITERALLY THOUSANDS OF JOBS OVER THE YEARS I STILL MIGHT GET A PEELY FINISH THAT IM NOT HAPPY WITH.THIS HAPPENS TO ALL PAINTERS NOW AND AGAIN.
TRY SPRAYING THE CLEAR ON A WET AS YOU POSSIBLY FELL SAFE WITH,BUT GIVE IT PLENTY OF FLASH OFF BETWEEN COATS
A SMALL RUN OR SAG IN THE CLEAR IS EASIER TO SAND/POLISH OUT THAN ORANGE PEEL ALL OVER THE PANEL
Yep,I agree with that.Most has to do with gun setup,but you need the proper clear/reducer for the temp.Bike parts are small so you can get away with more than a car,but they are also pretty round.Clear will lay down much easier over crowns than flat surfaces.My first thought is that your gun isn't breaking up the clear enough or maybe even your pressure is way too low.I run no less than 35lbs with the exception of getting into tight spots initially-but I'm still at about 30lbs for that.Going one step slower will help some,but be careful because it might slide around the fender rivets,etc.Since you're getting good wetting I don't think you're moving too quickly or the gun is too far away.Don't be tempted to hose it on heavier to make it flow because you'll end up with solvent pop.Everything I use by PPG sprays nicely through a 1.4 tip and that's in the reccomended range.What is the setup you're using and what paint are you using?
Thanks Shaunboy!Rex,I'm useing a 1.4 with a top loader, gravity fed.I shot at about 35-40lbs at my regulator,as I have no way to check it at the gun.I used HOK paint and clear.I bet What you guys call wet and what I call wet are differant.I bet I wasn't applying it heavy enough.I'll lay it on a bit heavier next time.Thanks,Jim
Jim, you may want to pick up a regulator for your gun. by time the air travets threw your hose i bet your pressure drops almost 10 pounds . next paint job turn your mixture screw up a half turn see if that helps. you might want to slow your passes down a bit. experiment a bit, your pressure at the gun with air passing threw should be 40- 45 pounds on most HVLP guns
Those guys pinned it.You're gun is fine,you just need more pressure to make the gun work.To check your wetness when you spray,make 2 or 3 passes of your first coat and stand back and watch it.Within 15 seconds the center strip will lay down to about 90+% of the final look with PPG's Concept clears.If it isn't slicking out just pickup where you ended and slow your passes a bit.If you think you're too far away,stretch your thumb and pinky apart and that's a good starting distance-about 8 or 9".If you're running standard 1/4" air line and fittings start with 40lbs at the gun.We have the 3/8 line and fittings for all the paint stuff at work so 35lbs is just right.Your next one will look great
