Tape Marks

[BeoBob]

How do you avoid having the tape leave marks on whatever you are masking off??? I have this problem every **** time.

I sprayed 2 coats of blue metallic base coat, then a couple of coats of base coat clear (BCC) with blue pearl, then 2 coats of BCC to protect the work. All coats had at least 15 minutes between, probably more like 30 between color changes. Everything was done in my back yard in direct sunlight.

I waited a week, then taped out for the next stage (black with gold pearl). The tape was on for maybe 3 hours total. It left marks all over the week old blue paint. Not that I cant sand them off, that's what the last coat of BCC was for. But how do you keep this from happening so I don't have to waste time and materials?

 

[TAZ]

Just to confirm that you are using automotive tape?
Possibly you are using a cheap tape like from Home Depot or Lowes and the 'new' reducer is going through the tape and reactivating the base/clear that you sprayed the week before.

Also, I don't think I'd spray that much paint in the direct sunlight. You are spaying a minimum of 6 coats of base. The sun will skin the top layer over thus not giving the previous coats a chance to dry properly.

Are you sure you are using a base clear and not a topcoat clear

 

[BeoBob]

So, you are saying that this is typically NOT a problem? Because it happens every time for me. To the point I add a layer of clear on top of everything I plan to put tape on later just to protect it.

I am using 3M green, yellow, and the blue fine line automotive tape. Are there any other tape mfgs you might suggest?

I had not thought of the "skinning" idea... probably what is happening. I have been using the sun or a heat lamp to help stuff dry faster. I guess that's a bad idea?

I don't have any other place to paint right now, oldest kid moved back in and is living it what was supposed to be my workshop/spray booth. Might buy one of those 12X12 pop-up things to work under.

Using what the Sherwin Williams guy suggested for pearls and candies, Ultra 7000 "innercoat clear". It uses reducer not activator, so I'm assuming it's a base coat clear.

I need to get this problem worked out before I move to larger projects.

 

[BeoBob]

Taz, while I have your ear...

I have been reading about using a flow coat as the last coat of clear. The goal being to get it to flow out super smooth eliminating the need for buffing. They keep saying to "over reduce" the clear. I thought final clear was supposed to be the 2K clear, doesn't use reducer.

What am I missing?

 

[TAZ]

I doubt if it's the sun that's causing all this.
The only thing that stands out in my mind since you are using good tape is that the clear really is not a intercoat type clear.
I've never used the SW70000 but I thought this also had a version that required hardener.

Normally if all goes good, you should be able to apply tape after an hour and it shouldn't leave prints.
A week should be plenty of time. In fact, normally it's suggested that you resand the surface before applying new material anytime after approx 48 hours.
Those are HUGE and deep prints left by the tape.
Do you have a picture of the can?

As far as over-reducing, I do not do this - even if it's a high-solids clear. I spray my first coat wet.
apply my next one or two coats after that wet.
The key is to let the previous coat tack up before applying the second/third.

You should at least do a medium wetcoat followed by 2 wet coats. I only old the gun about 5" away from the surface and move fast.
I've done it this way for many years.
My theory is, if you put a tack coat on, you spend the next 2-3 coats trying to get it wet.
if it's wet, then your next 2 should flow into the first.
As long as you use the correct temp reducer!!

 

[BeoBob]

Tape Marks:
Tape prints on this one are bad, worse than usual. I started using the SW7000 because I was getting the same thing on basecoat. If I put the SW7000 over the BC I can sand the prints out of the clear and not affect the metallic BC.
I do not have a pic of the can of the SW7000. It uses the same reducer as the colored base coat does though. And it doesn’t have much shine when it dries, even if I apply it wet. I have been using this only as a protective layer over base coats and as a carrier for pearls, flakes, and candy. Not for final clear. And yes, always scuff up anything over a day old.
I should mention, the gold pearl is premixed into a 2K clear. So here is the normal process… Sand the whole piece, tape off a pattern, spray the blue BC, innercoat clear with blue pearl, and protective coat of innercoat clear. Wait an hour and pull tape. Wait a week, cover all the blue with tape, spray black BC, followed by 2K gold pearl, and finally a wet coat of 2K clear.
Does it have something to do with me spraying 2K clear over the tape? I know the 2K will go right though a few layers of regular paper.

Flow Coat:
For final clear I have been using Finish 1 Ultimate clear. This stuff uses a hardener, not a reducer. Application has been wet on wet as you suggested. Sometimes it comes out great. Smooth as glass. But sometimes it gets the orange peel thing going and I have to wait a couple of days, sand the orange peel off and try again.
So when they say to over reduce for a flow coat, are they talking about a different kind of clear that uses reducer? Or are they adding reducer to the 2K clear? That’s my confusion.
I’m thinking the orange peel problem may be due to the cheap gun I am using. But if a flow coat could improve my chances of success the first time, I would like to try it.

 

[TAZ]

I'm not for sure what it could be.
It's not normal though.

Does it have something to do with me spraying 2K clear over the tape

That's very possible. Normally you don't put the topcoat clear over a part until ALL tape and paper has been removed.

=====

If you can get the clear to look nice sometimes and not on others, possibly your basecoat is grainy or rough. The clear can only lay as flat as the surface below it.

 

[BeoBob]

Looks like I have some experimentation to do.

 

[TAZ]

I still think it has to do with the clear you are using.

A couple questions,
you said the gold pearl comes premixed with the 2k clear.
What is this? Part number?

If you just sprayed a panel black and let it sit for an hour, and put tape on it, it will still leave bad prints?

 

[BeoBob]

MICI is the mfg. Second picture shows most of the stuff I'm working with.

I plan on doing some experimentation this weekend. Spray 2 panels blue, wait an hour or so, tape out a basic patern, spray one with another color basecoat, spray the other with the the MICI stuff. See what happens.

Next project is my #2 motorcycle (3rd pic). This problem must be solved before I move forward.

 

[BeoBob]

Tape marks sanded out fine. Weather was bad this weekend, could not paint. I did get a new gun tho. Excited to try this baby out.

 

[TAZ]

Glad to hear they sanded out for you.

Looks like a nice gun. Never heard of a <a target="_blank" href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=9&pub=5574949431&toolid=10001&campid=5336795009&customid=&icep_uq=tekna+spray+gun&icep_sellerId=&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg">Devilbiss Tekna</a><img style="text-decoration:none;border:0;padding:0;margin:0;" src="http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=9&pub=5574949431&toolid=10001&campid=5336795009&customid=&uq=tekna+spray+gun&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]"> spray gun.

Did you end up getting a 1.4?

 

[BeoBob]

Got a kit with 1.2, 1.3, and 1.4 tips and 3 air caps... TE10, TE20, and HV30 (http://www.amazon.com/TEKNA-703566-...82744&sr=8-1&keywords=devilbiss+tekna+prolite). One gun with the flexibility to do it all. My little compressor ([url]http://www.dewalt.com/tools/compressors-wheeled-portable---electric-d55168.aspx)[/URL] can keep 27psi at the gun for better than a minute of constant use with the mid size cap. Can't paint a car, but should work great for motorcycle parts.

 

[BeoBob]

And by the way… the paint smelled really fresh when I started sanding the tape marks out of it Friday night. I put the stripes down Saturday evening, tape was only on for a couple of hours. Stripes were a mix of 2K clear and metal flake. When I pulled the tape there were no marks. Last night the blue paint still felt a little tacky if I held the helmet firmly for a few minutes while sanding the striping. So at this point I am thinking too much base coat with not enough time in between coats… never had a chance to fully flash before the next layer went on. More patience needed on my part. And keep the work out of the sun.

I’m leaving the helmet under the heat lamp for the day. Clear tonight.

 

[BeoBob]

So I did some experimentation. Looks like I am putting too much material down too fast. Need to take my time and let each coat sit longer before I apply the next.

The new gun is fantastic. Took a few minutes to get it setup, but **** what a finish. Still nee to sand and clear one more time to bury the stripe.

 

[BeoBob]

Same friggin' problem. This must be solved before I can move on to painting a whole bike.

Flake was done 3-4 months ago... did several at once. Consists of a coat of silver basecoat 2 coats of flake+clear, then a few coats of clear, sand, clear, sand. Black was done at least a month ago... 2 coats basecoat and one medium coat of clear to protect the metallic.

I taped out for the red candy this Saturday AM. Tape was down maybe 2 hrs. Pulled tape and there were faint tape marks. Lightly sanded the whole thing Sunday AM and cleared. Tape marks still showing faintly. I can easily sand them out of this panel. But think about the added work to sand them out of a whole bike. And just the extra opportunity to sand through and screw up the candy or artwork underneath .