Tapeing

[MUTTLEY]

I assume I know what I am going to do, but you know what happens when you assume. Ive never done any auto painting before, but I have done a bit of airbrushing. I rebuilt a 75' baja beetle (914 2.0L) over the winter and I'm just about ready to paint (buying the paint on Fri after work). I plan on a black base with amazon green ghost flames (none of this is real relavent to the question, I'm just setting the mood). Now the question: I understand that times differ between paint companys and types, but what is the est. time "window" you can lay tape and spray? When is the paint dry enough to stick the tape, when its dry to the touch? Thanks for any help

 

[gc]

Talk with the jobber from which you are purchasing your paint. Get a "P"/Tech sheet and read it before you leave and be sure to discuss any questions with him. Typically I allow at least 1/2 hour for a base coat before I tape. Don't skimp on tape and buy quality. 3M is best, at least for me. You will regret cheap tape!

 

[BonesFX]

If you're shooting Black base - you can wait as long as you want - and before you tape out your flames, take a wet scotch-brite pad and scuff the whole thing down so the flames and clear have something to bite to -- It beats clearing after the black and saves you some time and money --- Good Luck!~ --- Bones!~

 

[MUTTLEY]

Confused slightly? Why does scrubbing with a scotch-brite pad beat clearing after the black? How does it save time and money? I would think (there I go again, thinking) that it would take longer, even though its a small car, it would take a long time getting in all those nooks and crannys with the pad for the clear to stick to. Even though confused, I'm very excited to start. Can't wait!!!

 

[TWISTED]

I think Bones was referring to intercoat clear. Most guys use it in between base and flames just in case something goes wrong. It's easier to take the graffix off of the clear than messing up the base and starting over from scratch.

 

[John Pierce]

Yeah, Twisted's got it; all Bones was saying is that if you wait more than 12 hours after laying on the black base you will have to scuff regardless of whether you use Intercoat or not... so, if it's a non-metallic base, you don't really need to do the extra clear step.... just scuff away!

I know a car will take quite a bit more time than a bike to scuff, but I did a tank, two fenders and two side covers in about 30 minutes the other day...

JP

 

[BonesFX]

What I was saying was:

If you're shooting a black base down you don't need to clear it before you do the art layout and painting. 3 out of every 5 Bike jobs I get are shot black. Unless I'm doin a mural I never clear or intercoat clear. I shoot it in the evening, and the next day I scuff it up with a wet scotchbrite pad. I don't hammer it to hard - just enough to give the next coat of paint or clear something to grab hold of. HOK Black base is amazing at swallowing up any marks or dust when the clear is applied. I've had residue from chalk lines and tape outs the completely go away after clearing. I will say never to sand black basecoat, even with 1000 grit - the reason is your actually changing the color after its sanded - the deep dark black is gone and you have this faded looking black base -- Any other color base coats I shoot get Intercoat or finish clear on them because it you use a scotchbrite pad on say white - you'll see the scratches and marks when its cleared -- As far as saving money and time - -Well your saving on the clear . .and for a car that could be a couple 100 bucks -- on the time -- its alot faster to scuff than it is to sand --- Hope this explains it better -- Peace --- Bones!~

 

[rex]

Yeah,what he said