Do any of you guys spray the perfect clear finish without having to polish? I usually lay 4-5 coats of clear then flatten with 2000 and polish. But i've seen the results of a young guys work (25 yrs old) and i've never seen better. He just sprays the surface, flattens until smooth and then sprays 2 thinned down coats of clear. Its beautiful, real smooth it actually looks like its covered in water. Anyone else use this method?
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That perfect clear finish.
- Thread starter VisioN
- Start date
T
TAZ
Guest
Hey...thanks for the post from "Italy".
As far as your question goes, it is all in "feel",application, and the gun you use. If you don't have all three, it's impossible to get a perfect finish.
*Yes* it can be done though without reducing on your last coats.
Keep in mind, the thinner the paint, the less orange peel you would have anyway,...but the less buildup you would have of the clear. This is why "Imron" was always so "flat" because it was reduced so much.
I use the same mixture from the get-go. I always plan on wetsanding and buffing a flat finish anyway.
I can get it *very* flat finish pretty much with any clear (that I have used). I *never* use the settings I have on the gun. I usually have everything wide open (fan and fluid), but use my touch to spray the part. I use my thumb as a "stopper" for the trigger.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif
As far as your question goes, it is all in "feel",application, and the gun you use. If you don't have all three, it's impossible to get a perfect finish.
*Yes* it can be done though without reducing on your last coats.
Keep in mind, the thinner the paint, the less orange peel you would have anyway,...but the less buildup you would have of the clear. This is why "Imron" was always so "flat" because it was reduced so much.
I use the same mixture from the get-go. I always plan on wetsanding and buffing a flat finish anyway.
I can get it *very* flat finish pretty much with any clear (that I have used). I *never* use the settings I have on the gun. I usually have everything wide open (fan and fluid), but use my touch to spray the part. I use my thumb as a "stopper" for the trigger.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif
G0rdyb1ker
New member
Hi Vision
Where abouts in the UK and Italy are you! I'm based in London and St Johann in Tyrol Austria ( not far from the Italian border)
Gordy
Where abouts in the UK and Italy are you! I'm based in London and St Johann in Tyrol Austria ( not far from the Italian border)
Gordy
M
myfamiliacc
Guest
Dang that is wierd! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
I'm 25 and I do the same thing when clearing.
after laying a tac coat and 3 or 4 wet coats, I let cure, then wetsand flat with 600 grt and lay 1 tac coat and 1 wet coat, both over-reduced between 15 to 20%
Lays down realy flat, but got to be very careful with runs.
I'm 25 and I do the same thing when clearing.
after laying a tac coat and 3 or 4 wet coats, I let cure, then wetsand flat with 600 grt and lay 1 tac coat and 1 wet coat, both over-reduced between 15 to 20%
Lays down realy flat, but got to be very careful with runs.
You guys are talking the 'flow coat' technique.The trick is like Scott said-make it so the first time.If it lays out it's less work to scuff-n-buff.Even though you're building and multiplying peel from the start you just need to minimze it and get the clear to lay out.From there it's gravy.
E
EricH
Guest
What do you guys use to reduce your clear? Can you just use a little MEK? Do I have to go buy a $60.00 pint of something?
Thanks
Thanks
LudicrousSpeed
New member
The ONLY thing I will ever add to my clears are the recommended hardeners or reducers.
MEK would be a good way to ruin an otherwise good paint job.
MEK would be a good way to ruin an otherwise good paint job.
Exactly,use their hardner and reducer to their specs.Most of the time you are allowed to slightly overreduce the clear but you have to ask to find out,but it really does very minimal to help.Your gun setup is the most critical,then the feel will come.Think of atomization as trying to get a smooth finish with softballs compared to golfballs,the golfballs will cover faster and lay flatter after flowing.If you're throwing softballs now higher pressure will help a little but a smaller tip is in order.Alot of people tend to paint "too fast" on the reducer too,HOK isn't supposed to like it at all but with PPG I run a temp range slower-like it's 80 degrees and I use the 95 degree or use about 1/3 of the 85degree reducer and the rest 95.Reading your tackrag is a good indication of proper reducer,if your base is leaving anything more than a hint of color you're too fast,and carry it over into the way you reduce your clear.That test is tacking the surface only,not masking paper included,and a blend panel on a high metallic or pearl color is the best test.