The better gun package? 1 devilbiss finishline gun or 3 devilbiss startingline guns

I

iwamaryu

New member
Need you guys to give me ideas here in the right gun package, I've been using a no name cheap eBay hvlp gun with average to disappointing results. I've decided to get a devilbiss. I've narrowed it down to either the devilbiss finish line with 3 tip sizes (1.3,1.5, & 1.8) or the devilbiss starting line package which includes 3 guns; 2 full sized guns one with a 1.3 tip, one with a 1.8 tip and a small touch up gun. Both of the packages around the same price. I like the idea of multiple tip sizes, because at the moment I'm painting acrylic lacquers hence the need for a 1.8 but in the future hopefully with more money to play around with I'd like to move to 2k paints therefore requiring the 1.3tip.

If people are going to tell me me the starting line series are as good as the finish line series then I'll go with the starting line for obvious reason; having 2 large guns for 2 separate applications and more hardware for the same price. But if the finishing line is way better by people's opinion then I will just have to deal with , cleaning and changing the tip on the one gun to suit applications (whether primer or top coats, lacquer or 2k).

These are the 2 packages I'm looking at:
finishline.jpg

devilbiss.jpg
 
TAZ

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
I really can't help you with those particular Devillbis guns. We only have SATA's. BUT I used to only use Devillbis when I used Siphon fed (I used the JGA).
I think just using a good quality gun is a great start. Then change the tips set it accordingly to what you are spraying.
Normally a 1.3 for basecoats, and a 1.4 - 1.5 for the clearcoats. I think the 1.8 is too big for today's clears. Of course, you'll have to play with the settings of the gun along with adjusting your spray technique.
If you do get one of those sets, let us know how 'you' like it.
:luck:
 
I

iwamaryu

New member
I've made my decision gonna go with the Devilbiss finish line . It was hard finding any good reviews about either of these guns. But for people interested to know: the startingline; are apparently made in china(taiwan), some have said that it's only good for painting cabinets but not worth using for automotive, and the starting line is the cheapest devilbiss has got. On one forum a guy recommended that the finishline was the least expensive gun you should get from devilbiss not the starting line.

more info:
New DeVilbiss Spray Guns

When the finish line comes i'll let you guys know what I think.
 
T

tomsteve

New member
the finishline is the better of the 2, but i have the starting line which i learned on. i honed my techniques on it and have learned how to get great results with it. but you got a very good gun. from what i have read elsewhere, it is possible to take the 2000 nozzle for a GTI and put it on the finishline and improve performance.
 
I

iwamaryu

New member
thanks for the feedback tom. Yeah I ordered the finishline3 from tgpglobal about a week ago so it should be here in the next few days. I didn't know you could take the GTI tips and put it on the finishline, thanks for the tip I'll keep that in mind.
 
G

g0000

New member
Penitence is something that enervates our spirit, causing a greater loss than loss itself and making a bigger mistake than mistake itself, so never regret.
 
flashtimes

flashtimes

New member
Don't forget one of the MOST important parts of making an HVLP gun (regardless of manufacturer), and that is the CFM requirement of the gun! The new SATA guns are AWESOME (so are the DeVilbiss guns by the way), but they (SATA) require 15.2 CFM to work properly. That's not all...then you have to add the CFM consumption of the air-system plumbing, the water trap, the hose to the gun, (all of which consume CFM) and all of a sudden you are up to needing maybe as much as 23-25 CFM just to make one HVLP gun work as designed.

Here is a good rule of thumb to determine CFM...each HP of of your compressor is going to create approximately 3.5-4 CFM; and depending on whether it is single or double stage...about 100-125 operating PSI (and that's when the compressor is brand new and not worn out). Now just do the math. 5 HP x 4 CFM/HP = 20 CFM @ (approx) 100 PSI. compressor. This isn't enough CFM to operate an HVLP as it was designed. And the urethane clears need to be atomized with the gun working at it's optimum, or it just won't perform as you expect.

You will have guys that say that it doesn't matter...they are wrong! You may get the paint to layout, but I guarantee you that if you are having problems with the clear, and it is not performing as it should...and you are using a high-end spray gun like a SATA, you need to check the volume of the air at the gun.

By the way...don't allow that clear overspray to come in contact with your skin. eyes, or any part of your body. Clear urethane is very possibly catalyzed with Hexamethylene Diisocyanate, and that stuff is deadly for us humans.

Be Safe!
 
flashtimes

flashtimes

New member
Don't forget one of the MOST important parts of making an HVLP gun (regardless of manufacturer), and that is the CFM requirement of the gun! The new SATA guns are AWESOME (so are the DeVilbiss guns by the way), but they (SATA) require 15.2 CFM to work properly. That's not all...then you have to add the CFM consumption of the air-system plumbing, the water trap, the hose to the gun, (all of which consume CFM) and all of a sudden you are up to needing maybe as much as 23-25 CFM just to make one HVLP gun work as designed.

Here is a good rule of thumb to determine CFM...each HP of of your compressor is going to create approximately 3.5-4 CFM; and depending on whether it is single or double stage...about 100-125 operating PSI (and that's when the compressor is brand new and not worn out). Now just do the math. 5 HP x 4 CFM/HP = 20 CFM @ (approx) 100 PSI. compressor. This isn't enough CFM to operate an HVLP as it was designed. And the urethane clears need to be atomized with the gun working at it's optimum, or it just won't perform as you expect.

You will have guys that say that it doesn't matter...they are wrong! You may get the paint to layout, but I guarantee you that if you are having problems with the clear, and it is not performing as it should...and you are using a high-end spray gun like a SATA, you need to check the volume of the air at the gun.

By the way...don't allow that clear overspray to come in contact with your skin. eyes, or any part of your body. Clear urethane is very possibly catalyzed with Hexamethylene Diisocyanate, and that stuff is deadly for us humans.

Be Safe!
 
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