urethane paint

Boston_jake01

New member
I just painted some parts to my bike and I noticed some little spots that didn't get covered with paint also some small fish eyes and orange peel. I applied 3 coats and then figured I would lightly sand it with 600 or 1000 and reshot it. I am using a single stage paint ( red if it makes a difference ) am I going about this the right way or should I do something different..
 

motor03

New member
It sounds like the surface wasn't clean enough before painting. My feling is that you will get the same thing if you spray over the old paint. If you sand the paint the way it is now and the fish-eyes were caused by some type of surface contaminate than you'll just be sanding the contaminate into the paint and will get the same end result. How did you prepare the finish before painting? Orange peel can be sanded out by the way.
 

Boston_jake01

New member
:sillyme: I wet sanded with 600 and then wiped it down with denatured alcohol.
I think I wiped it down good and then with a new disposable painter rag I wiped it dry. what did I do wrong and will I have to go all the way down to the fiberglass or just to the primer? also I have a fender that I have primed a while ago (3 months) and I noticed some surface rust around the bolt holes what is the best cure for this.
 

motor03

New member
I like the HOK stuff so I use their wax/grease/silicone remover before I ever sand. I've never used denatured alcohol. I don't know if the alcohol would take off all of the contamination. Also--If you touched the part at all with your bare hands before you painted you may have transfered oil which will fisheye. After I prime I wash down using a non-solvent based cleaner (also from HOK) and then I use a tack rag right before painting.

I'd bet you have contamination on the part. You may be ok going down to primer only but I wouldn't risk it.

What paint are you using? How long was the primer on the part before you sprayed? How long did you wait between coats of paint? Are you using only one brand of product or are you using one brand of primer, a different brand of paint---Etc?

As far as the rust on the fenders I'd have to see it. It seems like some area of bare metal didn't get enough primer.

If you can post some pics it might help.
 

Boston_jake01

New member
ok here goes the story I started to do my bike rebuild in oct. so I would say I primed the parts in nov. or dec. and I stored them in the shop. Iused ful fil primer and limco 3 single stage urethane paint and I had to mix the paint with reducer and harderner at a 8-4-1 (paint, reducer harderner) which I measuredreally good so I don't think it that. I did wipe the part down and I had to hold them so I did touch it with my bare hand but not in the area of problem. could shooting the part in a cooler area be a problem I think the room is between 50 to 60 or so. I had the parts in a really warm room about 80 plus then I bring it out to the garage and shoot it. oh I waited about 10 to 15 minutes between coats. I am having a hard time with runs also I have a HVLP gun gravity feed and I am not sure if I have it adjusted right, I try to lay the coats down light but when I squeeze the trigger all the way it cover it completely I am about 8 inches away from the part.

should I be wearing rubber gloves when I am cleaning the parts?

can I sand the orange peel and runs with 1000 or 1500 and then buff it or do I need the reshoot the paint after?

If I mix the paint as I said above can I reuse it later like days less than a week?
 
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motor03

New member
I've never used that brand of paint but as long as you followed the instructions for mixing you should be OK. The fact that it has hardener in it means that you can't use it later. There should be a tech sheet with the paint that will tell you what your "pot life" is which means how long the paint is useful once it's mixed.

I don't think it's a problem that you shot the paint at a lower temperature as long as you let it cure somewhere at over 70 degrees.

10-15 minutes sounds right between coats but a lot of painters rush the time and spray too early---I use a kitchen timer to help me.

depending on how bad the orange peel is I think you would be OK to use 1000 grit paper (wet sand it). I'd move to the 1500 or 2000 to finish and then use a good (3M, Meguires) polishing compound either by hand or with a buffer that turns at 1500 rpm or less. To make buffing easier I clamp the buffer in a vise and move the part around the buffer. In the past I have moved the buffer over the part and ended up shooting the part across the room---Not good for the finish.

I wear rubber gloves when I paint and when I prep for 3 reasons
1- rubber gloves are cheap
2- They eliminate the chance of spreading oil on the part (unless you scratch your head and then touch the part)
3- My hands don't like all of the solvents and cleaners so much--The gloves protect my skin.

As far as gun set up look here -
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/adjusting%20your%20gun.htm

and here - http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/adjusting your gun.htm

and here - http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Gun Travel

I generally leave the air wide open and adjust the material to get the pattern I want. I use a devilbiss SRW for my helmets and motorcycle parts with a 1.0 tip and I generally spray 6 inches or less from my work depending on the paint I'm using.

I'd check the tech sheet for the paint or call the manufacturer to see what they recomend as far spraying with the gun you have. Runs in the paint mean too much paint at one time. Either too slow of a gun movement over the surface or too much material coming out of the gun or a little of both.

Practice pays off. Get some sign blanks or other stuff to paint and play around until you figure out what you need. See if you can find a paint shop that will let you look in on how they are doing things (you can only learn so much from reading). Thats what helped me the most. I do better if I see how something is done.

Are you painting the 'glide from the site at the bottom of the post? Nice bike. Thats what I paint the most. I'm about to paint a 98 road king.
 

Boston_jake01

New member
ya I completely redid it and I want to do all the work.
thanks so much, I always make the mistake of not practicing before doing it on the actual parts. I will practice on some sheet metal.
I have a no name gun. I hope it will work for this prodject.
 

motor03

New member
Awesome--I love the evo's -- my personal bike is a 98 RK but I ride a '06 RK daily. Look here - http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Sharpe/sharpe.html - if you have a few dollars to spend on a decent gun. The finex 100 is a good gun for tanks and smaller stuff and the 200 is good also.

Good luck with it. Too bad you can't powder coat everything--you look like you have that down to a science.

Good luck.
AJ
 
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