Wet sanding & Polishing

[flamethrower]

Ok, I got my clear coats on and for the most part it all looks great. I have a couple small runs that should come right out with some wet 2000 grit. But how do you guys polish in all those nooks and crannies on the saddle bag lids, tank mounts, fender mount areas? Everything looks professional so far and I don't want to **** it up now after all I've done. I'm close, just gimme some info to push me over the edge. Please...

You can see some poor photos of my stuff in the "HOK green metal flake" thread.

Thanks in advance,

FT

 

[BonesFX]

Flamethrower - All that hard work -- don't mess it up now!!!! This part is so over-looked by so many. No matter how Badd *** a srayer you are, The buffing guys make it look perfect!!

Whenever I get runs or sags I use 1000 grit to get rid of it, works a liitle quicker than 2000. Acually I start sanding everything with 1500 and then go back over it with 2000, you'll knock off the dirt nibs quicker. Use a dry rag to wipe behind you and check that it's all been sanded flat. I personally do all the sanding by hand (power tools scare me at this stage of the paint game). I don't worry about the small cranny's and stuff, even if you can get a piece of sandpaper in there - it'll be a pain with a buffer and I hate rubbin out by hand. I use a professional B&D buffer with the 3M foam pads that are velcro'd. Put on the 3M rubbing compound and keep it wet at 1200 - 1800 rpm( I work at 1400). Work the area nice and slow without too much pressure (the weight of the buffer should be enough) When you're done with a section, wipe it off and look at the reflection of the light in the clear ( if you train your eye right you'll be able to see if there are any sanding scratches left - even if it shines like the sun) move on to the next spot and overlap your previous spot. "STAY AWAY FROM ALL EDGES AND CORNERS" and anything else that your pad might get hung up on. The only thing that takes off paint faster than lacquer thinner is a buffer in inexperienced hands. After the rubbing is done I switch pads and use 3M Glazing Compound (sorry I don't know the #'s - Don't have them here at work) The glazing is an extra fine cut that goes pretty quick. I'll also give my clients a small bottle of it that they can use until their paint cures. After that I wash it down with a mixture off warm water and Ivory liquid soap (Ivory's a "pure" soap and won't leave a residue like palmolive or others...) After that I blow it off with an air gun and then get my drop light and go over the whole job to make sure I didn't miss anything. Customers will find the "bad" spot first!!!! LOL!!! -- Good-Luck and don't wear a suit when your buffin'!!! --- Bones!~

 

[Jim]

Someone posted a great tip on the board somewhere, to tape the edges and sand or buff to them.You still have to be careful though,sometimes less is more,don't try to sand or buff too close to the edge with power tools,even a light sanding by hand will remove paint from a sharp edge.If you need to enhance the shine in the nooks and crannies,use a rubbing compound by hand,no sand paper.It's harder but,you wont break thru.

 

[rex]

Bones described it very well for someone that second guessed his ability.When you get to the nooks and crannies and tabs and stuff they need to come out clean and usually they're so rounded and small the paint lays nice there anyway.Now,sometimes I get a drip on the bottom edge of a tab or maybe another place.If I miss it until the clear has started seting up I let it sit a day,or 2 if it's bad.Then I take a frash razorblade and shave it down almost perfect (sometimes perfect happens).Then take a flat paintstick and wrap 1500 on it so the sanding side has only 1 tight layer of paper and slowly block it level to where it should be.Then hand rub it,no power tools.When you sand the parts to buff sand the 'flat' areas and stay 1/2" back from all edges like the filler neck and 3/4" from knarly welds that stick up enough the buffer pad will grind on them.With the right pads and technique you can get within 1/8" of an edge or protrusion but it's scary even when you've done a bunch.Practice on junk to get the hang of it before doing something that counts.

 

[flamethrower]

Thanks for both replies. I will reread them until its second nature and then I will start. Tonight makes three days drying and I will start the sanding and polishing tomorrow morning. I appreciate the help!

 

[BonesFX]

Rex - Did you really doubt my ability?? - My feelings have been hurt!!! LOL!!!

Good call on the "sand at least 1/2" away from any edges" - I learned that the hard way!!! LOL!!! I'll give you a bad example of buffing: - When I first started about 5 years ago I was painting a bike along with the customers Frame. I had the frame (hard tail with rear fender welded on) handing from the front and the back with some 1/4" rods that were hooked to some thin nylon rope and suspended from the ceiling. I started buffing out a few parts that I sanded (the whole thing didn't need to be buffed) and I worked my way toward the rear. With buffer in hand and wide open - caught a piece of the rope and the buffer shot out of me hands and up the rope, snapped at the ceiling and crashed down on the rear fender - snaped the weld off and crashed to the ground!!!! --- I went right inside to the refidgerator and grabbed a beer and kept drinking to supply my eyes with the liquid that was pouring out of them!!!!!

 

[BonesFX]

Are you kiidin - I still get a queazy feeling in my gut everytime I pull out my buffer!! LOL!!! - -

 

[flamethrower]

Bones, you crack me up!

At least you can look back and laugh at it.

Way to go, Brother.

FT

 

[rex]

I love it,and I'm part of the club.Hell I still get an oops.I only said that because it sounded like you were leary in your post,had to throw in a little dig

Isn't it funny how you get a little more cautious with the buffer after something's been tore up?I remember my buddy finished a scooter and held it for me to buff.Well,he sanded real close to the edge so it was real fun.To be expected he war rolling the fender in to the buffer and it caught an edge,poof and it flew 10 feet and skidded another 10 or so across the concrete floor.After I looked at him all I could do was laugh and we went to the bar.From that day on I held the parts.There's been more but that's all you get for now.

 

[flamethrower]

Dang, Rex and Bones,
you guys got me scared poopless to even get the buffer out!

This paint job is great so far! I guess if I have a booboo I'm in a good club of guys. And I drink, so there's no problem with drownin' my sorrows!

I'll keep you posted. I'm hitting it big tomorrow.

FT

 

[rex]

If you want to be really high up in the club you have to smoke and chase women too

I can't chase anymore so I lost some status but I haven't quit smoking yet-not quite sure if that's good or bad

Oh,the more serious the damage the higher you get quicker.You can dethrone me any time but I'd rather you not

 

[flamethrower]

Used to chase women. Somehow I managed to stay married to a fine lady. So Through all that, I don't chase 'em anymore. (I do slow down occasionally to see if any are chasin' me...

) As far as smokin goes... You can see from my signature below I'm a DeadHead... Does it matter what "brand" I smoke???

FT

 

[rex]

Not at all,but I'm saying no more

 

[BonesFX]

Yea - -I used to have parts flyin across my garage all the time - front fenders, rear fenders, head light assembly's - -and a lot of beer cans!!. I decided to go out and build my own stands - modeled after HOK's stands - bought some tubing and stuff and had a buddy with a welder put it together (finally got my own mig last month) They turned out pretty nice. To get my parts that I'm buffing to stay on the stands I drilled a series of holes in the stands below where the part would sit. Then went to the hardware store and picked up 2 stanley quick grips - these are mostly for wood workers gluing parts and stuff - I got em' home and put 2 holes in each of them on the top and bottom. Then found my old twisted rods - straightened them and stick them through the holes in the fender, then stick the other through the holes in the stand. slide on both quick grips through their holes and clamp down --- I have never had a piece go flyin across the garage yet!! and I don't need anyones help to buff --- when it comes to buffin other pieces - I have a piece of really thick rug I got from the local store - about3' X 3' -- I take a side plate and push it into this rug and it holds it great!!!

 

[rex]

STOP,dejavoiu