Wetsand vs. Adhesion Promoter

[muscato12ga]

I plan on painting purple pearl ghost flames over the stock finish on my car (this will be my first flame job). My car's stock finish is medium blue metallic with a clearcoat. Would it be better to wetsand the body panels before masking, or spray adhesion promoter after masking? I assume that wetsanding the stock finish will yeild a better overall finish but I'm afraid of screwing up the stock finish. What are the benefits and disadvantages of wetsanding and adhesion promoter. If the purple pearl is mixed in with a clearcoat, is it necessary to apply another clearcoat over the pearl coat? How long should I let the paint cure before compounding/buffing? Also any helpful information for a first timer would be apprediated.

 

[TAZ]

You should wetsand the panels to be flamed, then tape them up as though you were spraying the panels, then mask off your flames. Sanding your panels will give your new basecoat and clearcoat something to bite into.

Just be careful you don't sand through on the edges of the panels when wetsanding. Also make sure you completely wetsand them.

Depends on what pearl you use. All the ghost flame jobs and pearl I talk about on this site are sprayed as a basecoat. I would suggest using this method. Basically I just take some of the pearl toner found in the mixing system and mix it with basecoat clear, then apply it as a normal basecoat.

Once you spray your flames with this pearl basecoat, you need to pull off the tape/masking paper you used to mask up the flame jobs, then double check any overspray on the original basecoat, then apply the clearcoat over the complete panels.

No need to spray adhesion promoter since you sanded the panels. I would suggest possibly using a 1000 or 1200 grit.

On your buffing question, this usually depends on what paint you use, but normally you can do it the next day or couple of days.

Of course, before you start anything, be sure and use a good grade wax and grease remover.

 

[muscato12ga]

Ok now I have a NEW question. What do I do about the panels on my car that will not have any flames painted on them? How do I ensure that the newly clearcoated panels match the original finish on the panels that do not get the flame treatment? I don't really want to wetsand and re-clearcoat my entire car.

 

[FLAME QUEEN]

If you are to drive this and most likely some ones going to ask you hwo did the flame job ?
then do the litle extra work,now i don't know what your existing paint is,if its in good shape
then wet sand the entier panel and because
you will be clearing it (the panel)or I would prob. do wet sand the whole car and buff the car out (still just clear the area youv'e painted)

 

[rex]

I'm not sure I'd sand and buff the factory paint where you didn't reclear it,it's not that thick.There is enough there if the car is fairly new but you'll take enough off that it may chalk out soon.If you just lightly buff it without sanding you'll end up with a better result besides having an orange peel difference.Reclearing the whole car is the best way.If you're nervous about wetsanding the edges and bodylines of the panels you're flaming you can wet scuff it with a grey 3M scotchbrite pad,it'll scuff it up nice and you'll have to scuff real hard to break through the clear.The pad feels coarse but when used with water leaves a little finer scratch that clear will fill in no problem.

 

[rmt1and1]

You and I agree on this process pretty well. Especially liked the comment on the grey scotchbrite pad. I'd do just as suggested because I don't know how old your exhisting paint job is. If it's fairly new I'd wet sand the whole car, if not scotchbrite the car with the older finish except where you did your new work. It always looks better when the whole thing is done. Just my humble opionion.