What Color Under Flames to Reduce Coverage? Shade Colors?

[BonesFX]

Shoot a base of white first - even over reduce it and it will lay flatter - just enough to cover the base and then shoot the yellow - you're still gonna get a paint edge but it won't be quite as thick --- If your mixing your own DBU base - cut the DBX ^(% balancing clear from 59% to 25% and it will still bind and lay flatter without the extra balancing clear --- Adding violet or purple will darken your black -- try shooting the shadow a little farther away and lighter - it could be your technique -- or try reducing it some more --- Good Luck!!! Bones!~

 

[ezrider]

Not only use a white base coat, but tint the white base with a bit of the yellow you will be using so the white out line you get from usinig the white base isnt as noticeable and the straight yellow cover alot faster, yes less edge.

 

[Jim Baldwin]

Thanks for the help with this! I tried once quite awhile ago to use a white base on a black background with ghost flames and didn't tint it with the flame color. Caused just as much buildup as using the regular color!!! Thanks for the tip, Bones, on the 695. I also was wondering about the interclear? I've never used that before and don't really know what it is. I'm mostly a PPG user at my shop. It would help me timewise cause I only use DBU here. Thanks, everyone for the help... JB

 

[Jim Baldwin]

I'm using a mitsubishi deep black/green pearl PPG DBU for my base coat. What color should I use under my first yellow for the flames that will let it cover quickly without major thickness buildup? I tried on a practice panel with just using the straight yellow over the black/green and it took quite a bit of coverage and left unbelievable thickness.

Another question!!! I've tried my test panel, feel comfortable about crossover flames, but am wondering what color to use for shadows? Black, even thinned 400% just seems too much. I was thinking of using a bit of purple base added to the already thinned black. The colors of the flames range from blue, red, orange, yellow. Mostly shading around the yellow and orange areas.

 

[rex]

The interclear is DBU500 blender.You can make it by mixing the DMD649 clear with the balancing clear but it isn't a straight 50/50 mix so trying to make it without being cloudy isn't worth the time.If you want to lose the edge of the flames use this and block it down after it dries.PPG topcoat clear will shrink up at the edge and leave a fine line after a day or so in the sun.I've tried everything to avoid it and nothing works.The 500 works better because it's base also so the color and 500 mix together better and become one.Using top clear always has that edge of base to shrink up to.EZRider is using some generic clears he really likes and they may not shrink in like PPG's does.

 

[Jim Baldwin]

Thanks for the info, Rex. I've used the 500 quite a bit on panel blends. You said that it's not a 50/50 mix with the 649? What do you mix it at? I'm not at my shop right now, so I don't have the 500 spec sheet here. I don't remember what they recommend for blending clears. I know sometimes I've just hit my edges with a hot reducer that worked well. I'll be trying the 500 probably tomorrow if I get this project moving tonite. Thanks again for all the help. Jim

 

[rex]

I really don't know what the mix is and neither does the reps or anyone else higher up that I can find.I'll make some with the 50/50 mix for testing ideas but I always use the 500 on the job,except I use the DBC line.About the only time I use it on a car is if I get one of those metallics that don't like to spray out (the ones that are full of mixing clear and little pigment or metallic),then I cut the color down about 50% with 500 to lose the blend.This is what it's really made for-thinning down the color to lose a blend rather than over reducing it and screwing up the way the metallic lays.Another good use is if you have the door handles out and you know you'll get a little hanger off the bottom edge because there's no base there for the clear to grab into.Then I'll blow a coat of 500 over the blend panel before basing.I don't do this often but every once in a while the little voice says you're gonna be buffing a sag out of this one if oyu don't.I used to use the slower reducer to melt in a clear blend (which we know is a no-no) but what works better is DX(?) 830blending solvent.It stays wet long enough to burn the edge in and then it flashes off fast instead of staying wet so long that it may slide the edge by the time you keep misting it on wet enough to melt in like the reducers do.