What to prime

[timberjkd]

Hi ALL
Getting ready to paint my Electra Glide, and I have a question about spot priming. I have seen other opinions on the subject but none that address directly what I am doing. Any help/ advice would be greatly appreciated!
My current harley is green....like...GREEN. The plan is to remove all the freaking pin stripes that are UNDER the clear, then spot in with epoxy primer, sand the whole thing with 320-400 and then base with black. Follow with big red flake in2 coats SG150, then 3 coats clear, wet sand, re-clear.
Question: Is priming the whole bike necessary, or is spot priming on the areas that I had to remove the stripes and possibly bondo enough? Usually I have to prime the whole bikes bc friends want a lighter color than the one they have and theyve dinged it up so much so theres lots of filler. My bike is going to a darker color and then flaked over....so whats the approach? First time flaking so Im nervous and excited to try this. Plus its mine so I can experiment a little.

Thanks tons!!

 

[TAZ]

Welcome,

You'll need to sand the stripes out or at least 'flat'. Then prime those areas if needed. Block those areas. Sand the complete part with 320 (DA or hand sand). Then what I normally do is spray a couple coats of sealer. In your case, black sealer. Then spray black base (normally only a couple coats since the sealer covers quickly - you can bypass the sealer step though since black base covers 'fairly' quickly).
Spray the red flake (LOWer pressure), Spray a few GOOD coats of clear. resand fairly flat. Then reclear.

You do not have to prime the complete parts. You do not have to prime ANY parts complete IF you don't mind sealing the parts once they are in the booth.
I try to get OR MIX a sealer that is about the same shade as the base I am about to spray. If it's a lighter blue metallic, I'll spray a lighter to medium gray sealer.
If it's a yellow, I'll spray a white sealer. if it's a dark blue metallic, I'll spray a black sealer ....etc.

Hope all that helps.

 

[timberjkd]

Welcome,

You'll need to sand the stripes out or at least 'flat'. Then prime those areas if needed. Block those areas. Sand the complete part with 320 (DA or hand sand). Then what I normally do is spray a couple coats of sealer. In your case, black sealer. Then spray black base (normally only a couple coats since the sealer covers quickly - you can bypass the sealer step though since black base covers 'fairly' quickly).
Spray the red flake (LOWer pressure), Spray a few GOOD coats of clear. resand fairly flat. Then reclear.

You do not have to prime the complete parts. You do not have to prime ANY parts complete IF you don't mind sealing the parts once they are in the booth.
I try to get OR MIX a sealer that is about the same shade as the base I am about to spray. If it's a lighter blue metallic, I'll spray a lighter to medium gray sealer.
If it's a yellow, I'll spray a white sealer. if it's a dark blue metallic, I'll spray a black sealer ....etc.

Hope all that helps.

Thanks for the info and quick response. I do have a couple of questions though.
Ive never used sealer as sealer. I usually use tcpglobal's Kustom Shop epoxy primer/sealer. When I use as a primer I sand the next day with 320 and then base. If I use as a sealer I dont have to wait right. The process should be 1 good coat of sealer - flash - base coat...correct?
Also you mentioned low pressure for flake. What do you recommend? I typically shoot at around 29-30 psi for base and clear at the gun regulator. This gives me about 10ish at the tip. Ill be shooting the flake (bass boat size) in sg150 and Im not sure if its like a normal clear or thin and dryer like inter coat.
Thanks again.

 

[timberjkd]

Anyone?