Why?

[hoss]

Why is my paint scaling up on me. It looks like it is squishing together forming ridges. I sanded down the clear, and put a base coat of paint over it, and it reacted on me. What is the cause of this?

I sanded it down to the metal, and i'm going to start over. but i'm just wondering. I hope everything that is going to happen, keeps happening while i'm painting on my bike. I wouldn't want it to happen on a future customers. I would rather learn on my stuff.

 

[LudicrousSpeed]

I had it happen to me yesterday on a test panel, but it was because I pushed it too hard.

I primed it and let it sit for about 4 hrs, then I scuffed it and started laying down a base coat and subsequent coats of pearl over it, w/o much flash time in between. That thing looked like an alligator around the edges!!!

How long had your clear cured? Did you sand through it anywhere???

 

[newbie]

Hoss,
I learned the same thing the hard way. After putting on a catalyzed clear, it appears it needs to cure for at LEAST a few days prior to putting a base over it. Even though it sands fine the very next day, it still needs a few days to complete it's cure.
newbie

 

[hoss]

I cleared it a couple nights before. I had an acrylic enamel pinstripe under it, and i sanded it smooth. I wonder if that had anything to do w/ it? Is there a primer that you should put on the thing before you paint on the clear?

I sanded it down to the metal. What tool is the best for stripping paint off so a painter can start over. I don't have the right tools yet, so i was just wondering. What grit and tool?

 

[hoss]

I just got finished taking the tank to the metal. It is flamed and ready to go. I sprayed a little clear over the flames so that i would loose the edge of the flame when i went to pinstripe. Then 8 hrs later i cleared the whole tank. Now every place the flames are have reacted. I am p*ssed off. If it can go wrong it has. I guess I'll start over again. 3rd time a charm.

What is the best tool for taking all the paint off? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/headbutt.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/luck.gif

 

[tiller2nv]

Ive had it happen to me and found that I was spraying the base on too wet.

 

[hoss]

but if it is not runnning on me then it should be ok, right?

 

[tiller2nv]

You dont have to run base for it to do this. If its too wet it will crack.

 

[Jim]

Hoss,Are you mixing paint brands?Useing old stuff?What exactly are you useing?If it happened twice,It's gonna keep happening unless you do something differant.Give more details before you paint again,this stuff is expensive!Jim

 

[hoss]

the first time i sanded down the clear after 30hrs of drying time to get rid of the edges and to re paint it cause i didn't like it. I broke through the clear and it cracked where i broke through. My flame edges were pinstripped w/ an acrylic enamel. Everywhere i sanded through the clear it scaled up on me.

I took it to the metal and started over (2nd time) I finished my flames and took my air brush and put clear over the edges of the flames so that when i pinstripped i wouldn't see the edge of the flame paint in my pinstripe. 8hrs later i decided not to pinstripe, i wiped the tank off w/ a precleaner, and everywhere i sprayed the clear at earlier it scaled up on me.

I took it to them metal again(3rd times a charm /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/luck.gif). I painted it and i am going to flame it. Clear the whole thing, buff it and pinstripe it on the outside of the clear. I know this procedure will work cause my first attempt was a success till i tried to paint over it.

I am still in the practice mode so i have been using the napa base coats. They seem kind of rubbery when you sand them, but the gloss looks great when it is cleared. I did mix the napa silver w/ a dupont blue base, but i had no problems w/ it on my first attempt.

The problems only seem to happen when i am clearing then waiting several hrs and clearing again. Only in spots that have been cleared or where i break through to the edge of the clear does it seem to happen.

I am useing a urethane clear by wagner. It is a great clear and i can see a mirror reflection perfectly. It flows well, works great, and i can get a gallon of it and the activator for 50 dollars. (i wonder if the place that i got it from is buying other peoples old stuff and selling it cheep? I'll take a look at the date on the jug.

The more i screw up on my stuff the more i'll learn and hopfully not screw up on thiers. That is the positive outlook.

thanks for all the help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[hoss]

What do i do when i need to sand down a line and i go through the clear to get it smooth enough to clear over? What base or primmer could i use to dodge the reaction problem?

 

[Jim]

Hoss,Your right,nows the time to learn. If your buying the materials now,I dought being old is the problem.You mentioned that the paint seems rubbery when you sand it, sounds to me like it's not cured all the way,base or clear should not be rubbery when cured,Maybe you need to let it flash between coats longer?
There is no need to clear,then clear several hours later.Read the tech sheets or directions for the clear,If it's a 2 coat clear,put two coats also if your bustin through,your either sanding too much or don't have enough down.I have in the past put two coats,let it dry for 24hrs,came back and very carefully sanded 600-800 down most but not all of the flame edge,then lightly sanded the rest and layed 2 more coats without problems.(24hrs later,sanded and buffed)Also,when you airbrush the flames,keep the edge thin,you'll have less of an edge to try and flatten.As you found out,once you bust through,all kinds of wierd stuff happens.
Make sure you let each coat flash,base should be dry to the touch before the next coat,Clear needs a little more time between coats,it should be tacky but no longer stringing.
I don't know the quality of Napa paint but,I wouldn't mix it with other brands,it may be ok but,your looking for trouble by mixing paint lines and being new,it's not worth the hasstle of trial and error ,jim

 

[rex]

Jim's last post basically covers it.You have to maintain a certain millage(thickness) of clear and it needs to be dry enough to get back on with more work.When you break thru or it even gets right at the point you stopped sanding just in time the new solvents soften the top and seep under if they can,instant wrinkle.

 

[hoss]

The base coat seems rubbery.

Could this be b/c i didn't add enough reducer?

It seems really runny when i add the recomended reducer. The can says 2:1. If i add half the ammount of paint in reducer it seems way to watery.

 

[Jim]

That is 2 parts paint to 1 part reducer.Are you going the other way?Follow the directions,it'll work.And yes,reduced base is very thin. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif

 

[Jim]

...and if by chance you are mixing 2 parts reducer to 1 part paint,there is your trouble!The same with clear and primer,the first number is ALWAYS your medium.Something like 2-1-1 is paint,hardener,reducer.Jim

 

[hoss]

I did mix it that way. Just seems a little thin. I have enough common sence to figure that one out. Just enough. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/agree.gif

 

[Jim]

[ QUOTE ]
If i add half the ammount of paint in reducer it seems way to watery.

[/ QUOTE ] I was just a little confused with this sentance,I didn't mean anything by it,just trying to get your problem figured out,Did you try it again yet?Jim

 

[hoss]

I know ya didn't mean anything by it. I just said that i have just enough common sence to figure out 2:1, but not too much more.

I haven't tryed to paint it again yet, but i did finish my tank. But, i'm going to do it over again b/c the flames look funny to me, and my pinstripping isn't crisp enough. It is good for one of my first attempts, but not good enough. What's the best way to take paint off?

 

[Jim]

I prefer sanding with an 80 grit sanding disc and let the edge of the disc do the work.If you don't press too hard,it doesn't bother the metal too much.Go over with a good primer and a skim coat of glaze,sand smooth and hit it again with a primer/sealer to cover the filler.Or HOK Epoxy,glaze,and more epoxy,sand smooth with 400 and paint.Chemical stripper works too but,it's pretty messy.