Will I be OK if ?

[Mike Dursky]

Getting ready to order my paint. Will I be OK if I put ppg base down then candy urethane over it then ppg clear over that. It almost reads like you shouldn't mix other products with House of Kolor candies. It also talks like I should lay down some KP21 Epoxy primer first. Is that necessary. I have already primed with DZ-3. I had to repair the tank so it has bondo in it should I seal it to help prevent bleed through.Also, When I have one of my base colors mixed I want to have the heaviest metallic flake I can get (as in metallic paint not metal flake) mixed in. Will I be ok using a VL/VLS airbrush (Paasche) it says it has tip and needle size for Light to Heavy Fluids. I am doing ghost flames with the heavy metallic paint then candy over that.
Thanks

 

[Brian Keith Smith]

I just used PPG DCU-2021 over my HOK paint 2 weeks ago. Seems to work great.

Brian

 

[rex]

I accept no responsibility for this post just to cover my butt.HOK used to if not still does buy alot of their ingredients to make their product from PPG.I know PPGs DT reducers can be used in HOK products and some of their clears can be used to topcoat.A problem I see is the Kondar primer(DZ3).It's lacquer based and the only way I know to somewhat reliably urethane over it in PPGs system is to DP epoxy it and follow the special requirements of it.I can't remember if you need to paint within a certain time or it needs to dry a certain time but the tech sheet says so.If I remember tomarrow I'll look it up.If you plan on doing it lacquer all the way it won't matter.

 

[flamethrower]

No offense to anybody who has far more experience than me (which is just about everybody since I have only done one paint job...) but if you're going to the trouble to do a quality job, why risk it over a few bucks? Either go with PPG whole system or go with HOK whole system. I use HOK because I met Jon K and he sold me on the "don't mix companies theory," I'm sure PPG is just as good, but why not stay within that system? To me it just doesn't seem worth risking all that prep work and money to have the job fall apart because of incompatibility of brands. Just my .02 worth.

 

[DenB.]

YOU'LL HAVE TO ADMIT FLAME THROWER MAKES A "GOOD" POINT. BETTER SAFE THAN VERY SORRY

 

[TWISTED]

I never did a job for a customer without using the same system throughout the job "just in case", but I have used different systems together in the past with good results. HoK primer, Harley laquer base, Createx for the graffix, and HoK urethane clear on one job and still looks good two years later. I even did a jb on my kids tricycle a few years ago with rattle can primer, HoK base, createx flames, and HoK clear. It took a beating from the kids but the paint held up pretty good.

 

[BonesFX]

I'm with Twisted here, You name it I've mixed it together with great results. HOK bases, PPG bases - both for airbrushing and laying down colors...... never had a problem. The only problem I've ever had was with PPG lacquer based primer - that stuff is junk - no matter if I wetsanded it with 1000 or 220 I could never get either systems base coat to stick to it. I'd unmask parts and parts of the bsae coats would come up with it - I always cleared with HOK, but might be moving over to PPG Global clears because of the higher solids. I love HOK's paint, it laysdown great ,but since they've merged with Valspar somethings haven't been the same, I hope Jon K. keeps his hands in it for a while longer - I would hate to see a great compant like that go down in quality --- BTW - I've only read that you shouldn't use different reducers with HOK - I think you can mix both systems, they are very similiar in chemistry - - Bones!~

 

[Mike Dursky]

So what I am hearing is I probably had better lay some epoxy primer over the DZ3 ?

 

[BonesFX]

Yea Mike - Go with the Epoxy primers. I'm using the PPG (not sure which number) but its the 2 part and can also be reduced down to spray smoother. Bieng that it's a 2 part, it does take a little time to dry up compared to the old lacquer primers. I try to shoot mine in the evenings thus giving it all night to dry all the way to the sheet metal. After it's cured and dry if I need to do some minor bodywork I'll do it then, if not - I wet sand and let the base-coats fly!!! -- Bones!~

 

[rex]

Damn it,I was real busy today and forgot you Mike,sorry.I'll definately find out tomarrow for you.If you're getting the stuff tomarrow ask the paint store to look up the tech sheet for DZ3 and DBU/DBC.In there it says what DZ3 needs to be primed with and the time requirement.The older Delseal 1980 will work for DBU base but I'm not sure if it's made any more.I'll post it on my lunch break so you don't have to wait for me to get home.

 

[rex]

Hey Mike,I'm back after trying all day (damn computers

) If DelSeal 1980 is still available it's fine under DBU/DBC,if not ask HOK about theirs since it's probably cheaper.If not seal the sanded Kondar with DP(DPLF actually).When you do you need to base it within that working day to prevent a chance of wrinkling,or wait 15-30 minutes and put another full wet coat on.With the latter you have up to a week to topcoat it without sanding.

To actually answer the rest of your post,getting the bigger flake through the airbrush depends on tip size and you're out of my area there.For sandwiching HOK candy in PPG I might be a little leary.I'd either do the base and candy in HOK,or make or have made the candy in PPG to be safe.I can't say for sure because I haven't used HOK candies and make my own.It is hard to duplicate the depth of HOK candy though.

 

[Mike Dursky]

Thanks rex. I believe I will hit it with the DPLF and just go with HOK all the way.

 

[rex]

If you're going to go HOK throughout call them and ask what they suggest,their products are cheaper basically and their epoxy or KoSeal might be just fine.Could save yourself a few bucks there.

 

[Mike Dursky]

Will do ! Thanks rex