Motorcycle Parts Stand

[TAZ]

For all you painters out there, this tip might come in handy. It is fairly inexpensive, and I have found it works great for both painting and buffing.

When I opened my shop, I went to the local Home Depot with one thing in mind, I wasn't walking out until I found something I could use for parts racks.
Here is what I came up with. I found some stands with rollers on them in the lumber section. Of course I forget the name of them, but they are used to like take wood out of the back of a truck (or something like that). They have about a 10" roller on them. This helps you move whatever is to move.

Anyway, they only cost about $20. So here is what you need to do this little project. I have also included what department I found them in

1-The stand I talk about above. (Lumber)
2-The flat steel that is about 2 1/2" wide and
6' long. I bought the one that has holes in it about every 2".(Fastner area)
3-electrical tape (Electrical)
4-Screws, nuts and washers. I believe I bought 3/8" (Fastners)
5-The foam covering that goes over plumbing. (Plumbing)

This should do it.

Now...remove the roller and throw it in the garbage. Cut two pieces about 5" each off of the flat steel you bought. I try to cut is so there is hole in the very center (example, cut it so there are seven holes, one in the center and three on each side).

Grind the upper corners of the steel so they are round.

Then you will need to bolt these two pieces, one on each end of the stand (where the roller holes are.

Now, place the foam covering over the steel. I left about 1-2" over on each end. this will help keep the fenders on nice and tight (and not directly on the steel)

Wrap the covering in electrical tape.

Your done!!!!

Now, you can cut different widths of steel to cover different types of fenders and tanks. I have seven of these and have found they work great. Best of all, the racks are adjustable!!!!

I also have one rack that has no roller and no steel, just the top of the rack. I use this for fenders like the Softails, Springers...I bolt the fenders on (can do two at a time). Of course this only works good if the bracket is painted, and you can tape it up, then you bolt it on.

Hey...there's a little Macgyverism in all of us!

I will try to add some photos step by step (I need some more racks...must be a good sign

Enjoy this little tip!

 

[ezrider]

Scott got any finished pics ? i was looking to buy stands from House of Kolor . they were about $350. you couldnt have posted this at a more PERFECT TIME.

 

[TAZ]

Actually, I do EZ. They have parts on them, but you can still get the idea. Go to the front page (or most any page in the site) and click on "Our Spray Booth". You will see the stands "in action"

I will try to get a step by step soon. Hey for about $25, I think they work great.

Buy lot's of stands, I hold stock in the company that makes the stands

Just kidding!

 

[ezrider]

Scott,i was in Home Depot on the 4th to pick up the lumber for next weekends deck prodgect when i ran into a box of the lumber stands you were talking about. i picked up 4 ( your stock should be soaring now ) got any pictures of the " heads " you fabricated. i have a good idea but would like to see yours. your heads are already proven to work. thanks

 

[TAZ]

Joe,
I just picked up some new materials, so I can do a "How-To" on the motorcycle stands (plus I needed them anyway), but I got you a couple of quick pics to give you an idea of how I did it. Be sure and read the instructions above.
One change I need to make, I made a mistake. I meant duct tape, not electrical.

Another neat this is to had set up for tanks, one for front fenders, and one for back fenders, and one without any brackets or rollers (use this one for the little FXST and Springer fenders). So change the length of your metal slats on each rack (one about 5 holes, another about 7 holes and another about 9 holes. Also, be sure and leave 1-2" of the air cond. tubing (whatever you call it) hanging over the end on each side of the slat. This will give you quite a bit of margin of size for fender widths.

These stands work excellent for all import and H-D fenders along with import tanks.
I usually use a 2X4 to put the single H-D tanks on once the bottom is masked up or hang it up if they are new.
Of course you can use these stands assuming the bottom of the fenders already has paint on it.
Here they are.

First thing you do is throw the roller away. Push in one side and it slips out easy.

Look for a How-To page next week. I will post a link from this post.
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[tooter]

scott what do u use to wet sand and buff on?

 

[TAZ]

Same stands. I just make sure I blow them off before I paint. Most of the compound dust falls on the floor anyway since the main part is *inside* the fender or the tank.

 

[melthebikepainterdude]

Those stands look great, I've been using regular 'ol saw horses and stacking short 2x4's up for the fenders, screwing the 2x4's together with dry-wall screws then using wire under the fenders to hold them on. For the tank, I use an eng. stand with a 2x4 in the round hole so the tank can swivel 360 degrees. That is good and cheap for me. The wood gets alot of paint overspray but the clear gives it protection, i have a couple of saw horses that are five years old now the 2x4's are like 3x5's (LOL) maybe you'll use this tip I just had to add it in ....

 

[Mitchb71]

When is the how to page gonna be up? I thought i understood what you were talking about and then i saw the few pics you put up and compare that to the booth pics. It doesn't add up, what you are doing with the railing with the holes in it.

 

[TAZ]

Well I'm from the Bahamas guys.

I still have that "floating" feeling from the ship.

Mitch,
I will get the How-To up soon. Just got back and am overloaded with, well...everything!!!!

As far as the railing goes, I cut this down (usually to about 5 or 7 holes), then bolt it on both sides of the stand rail, then tape the air cond. hose on it. You might have been confused on the spray booth pic of the fender on the very right side of the pic. This is the one that I leave off the stand (think I mentioned that somewhere above to leave off the rails on one of the stands).
This way I can bolt on up to 2 FXST fenders. The other fenders that you see use the $25 stands.

 

[ezrider]

Scott, just wanted to let you know i finally got to use the paint stands today , they worked mint. the 2x4 on top of the stand worked excellent on a 1 piece tank ( Sporty ) i sprayed the tunnel in advance so i could sit it on top of the 2x4 stand and i was able to reach every thing but 3/4 of the tunnel, which will never be seen once mounted on the bike.

 

[TAZ]

Glad to hear it Joe!!!!

I think we can come up with an even better solution to "hold" the tank in the air, by bolting it on. This would help eliminate the first step of spraying the underside first. I have a setup going, but it is somewhat crude.
I may end up having to do a little welding to get it exactly the way I want it.
Stay tuned.

 

[rex]

I think I got this pic thing fixed so here goes again after the umteenth edit.The quality will suck because I had to resize them. So far I have $22 in the stands with quite a bit left over although I need 1 more piece of conduit and the donut spares and the nuts and bolts were free,but you need access to a mig welder if you don't have one.The tops come off (along with being adjustable for height) so you can build multiple jigs or change rods on some to bolt the parts down to buff them without slinging them into a wall if you grab an edge.They're surprisingly sturdy too,much more so than I thought.More to come if anyone's interested.

 

[big stinkie]

FWIW, I made my first tank stand so the front of the tank was hinged with a wooden dowel through a 2X6 and the front mounting holes. The rear mounting tab rested on another upright 2X6. I tilted the tank 90 degrees and hooked it by the rear tab to a wire suspended from the ceiling, and painted the tunnel. Then I brought the tank back down so the rear rested on the board and painted the top.

I was able to paint the whole thing at once that way, and I didn't have to fight the spinning and swinging associated with suspending it from a wire by itself.

It requires that you must re-build it for different size tanks, and you must be careful so the surface of the tank doesn't bind against the 2X6 when you tilt it up. It's a little tough to properly treat the area directly around the dowel, and you have to be careful not to let the inside of the tunnel touch the 2X6, but I think the concept has possibilities.

The entire mess consisted of 2 - 2X6s about a foot long, a 2'X3' piece of plywood, and a wooden dowel, and a chunk of wire with a little hook on the end. Simple and cheap.

I'd like to refine the idea, and perhaps build an adjustable metal stand, but just too darn busy!

Worked for me...your mileage may vary.

 

[kevsLX]

Hey Rex, I'de like to get a copy of your plans if possible

 

[rex]

I just pulled them up in my head and did it as I went,but here it is.I went to Home Depot and got 10 ft lenghths of 3/4,5/8 and (2) 1/2" pieces of galvanized steel electrical conduit and a 10' 1/2 and 3/8 threaded rod (was right next to the conduit).Over at the short metal rack I got a piece of square 1/2" tubing the 3/8 treaded rod will slide into 3 or 4' long.About $22 (don't buy the 3 or 4' threaded rod,it's about the same price as 10').I got this for free: 3 donut spares and about 18-20 1/4"x3/4" bolts with nuts,a foot of 3/8 fuel line and 3 squares of scrap metal to fill the center hole of the rim.

Cut the 3/4 conduit into 3' lengths(or a bit shorter)for each stand and weld one end to the flat square.Weld this to the center rim hole,I slid mine through and welded to the bottom.I cut 3 1' lengths of 1/2" conduit for lower braces and welded them on but stay a few inches from the tire bead,especially with air in it.The 5/8 conduit is cut in 3' lengths to slide down in this for heigth adjustment.I put 2 lockbolts in the upright and all are done this way.Drill a hole a little smaller than the outside diameter of the nut and weld it on for the locknut.You may have to knock out any flash after drilling the square tube later so the threaded rod slides in.Now for the fun part.I can get actual measurements if you want for the rest.On the rear fender cut a piece of 1/2" conduit around 9 or so inches and weld it to the 5/8 upright to form a T.Cut 2 pieces of 1/2 threaded rod to slide inside it.Weld about a 2" piece of square rod to it in a T (x2).Now cut a piece of 3/8 thread rod about 1" narrower than the fender inside width and slide it in the square centered up.Cut a piece of gas line to slide over each end so it stops up against the square on each side and is a touch wider than the fender overall.Weld more lockscrews in these pieces like in the pic.Set the fender on and push down a little.I made it so the 'head' sits way up inside the fender.The pictured front fender stand is for a narrow 21" front so I cut the 5/8 upright and bent it so the struts weren't blocked by the upright.I also welded a tab on top of the upright and the botton of the horizontal so I could tilt it.I also bent it to kind of follow the contour of the fender.Access to the inside of the struts is wide open this way.The narrow fender just kind of sits there but the rubber fuel line gives enough traction to handle 45+psi.A narrow glass fender could be scary.For a wider fender just replace the 3/8 threaded rod with longer ones like the rear.For the tank I did basically the same thing as the rear fender,but the square is only about an inch long like the front fender.The 3/8 rod is just a touch wider than the outside width of the tank mounts.This is the tricky part to set up though.The rear 1/2" rod/square T is mounted to the rear tank mount with a 3/8 nut and washer on the inside of the tabs so the outside is painted.nut and washer the front one in the stand.Slide the rear one into the stand and as you slide it in slip the front tabs over the front rod.If you have holes instead of slots in front you'll have to slide the rear in and lock it down good enough to prevent the tank from spinning,then thread in the front with the nuts or push the rod through with some fuel line for spacers,then lock it down.I also cut and bent the upright on this to get the tank angle better,but it isn't perfect.

I still blow a coat of black on the insides before I mount them,but I scuff it because the only spot that wont get paint is directly above the jig head and where it touches,or you can mask off the inside before you mount them.If you want to buff them,the tank is fine and probably the rear fender but you can pull the 3/8 rod and cut longer ones and bolt the fender solid through the strut holes.The front needs another head (part of the reason for the flat tab to unbolt it instead of making another T)so you can bolt it solid through the strut mount holes.I still have way over 1/2 of the square tubing,both threaded rod and one piece of 1/2" conduit for more heads.I haven't built jigs for tanks other than a Sporty/Dyna one piece tank so that's next.Let me know if you need dimentions on the heads,I can measure mine and get some better pix.Sorry it's so long winded,but it'll take you longer to build them-a good 1/2 day.They're very sturdy considering how lightweight everything but the wheel is.

 

[rex]

I had a feeling about the rear tank mount and I was right,BIG pain in the butt to get the 3/8 rod and nuts out after it's coated with paint.The nuts need to be on the outside or the rod just pushed through with some fuel line spacers on the inside.

 

[rex]

Ok,screw it.I had to delete the pics but I'll email them to anyone that wants them.They're large images (3 digit kB) and overdo my account.6 pix with 5MB of use is locking up around mid day,oops.

 

[sbCountry]

Rex,
I am interested in having the pictures emailed to me, please. Thank you in advance.

Scott

 

[rex]

No problem.Give me till tomarrow night though because the wife went to bed and I have no idea how to until she shows me.I think there's one I didn't post(for the short time they were up) but not sure.I have to warn you they are 3 digit kb files though so I'll let you know how many I send.