Question for you X-perts

[outlaw17]

I really want to do something like these pictures below , from what I can tell it looks like it is marblized and then there is something over that to give it a holographic or prizm effect , can any of you tell me how this is acheived . I want to do it on a couple race cars but I will test it on a helmet .

 

[ezrider]

That prizmatic paint is used by a certian custom paint shop, whos name i am not going to mention. They have a patend on it and they are not giving up any secrets. i asked about purchasing some a while back and they never responded. Good luck

 

[rex]

Now there's some serious money sitting there!I figure 80k if that's a serious motor.

 

[outlaw17]

I spoke to my Sherwin Williams dealer and he tells me they have developed a holographic paint but it has not hit the market yet , I hope it does soon

 

[DDG]

There is another way to go, you can use a holographic mylar to achieve the effect. I read it somewhere but can't remember where. I'll get back when I find it.

 

[DenB.]

I'm no expert but, if you're just planing on doing sections on a race car. what about starting with 3M scotchlite material( same stuff used on highway signs) the spaying pearls and or candies over that? good luck with what ever you choose that treatment looks awsome

 

[outlaw17]

Naw , that would'nt quite be the effect I was after . I have not had the chance to spray any of the Chromillusuion or Kameleon type colors , but a long time ago when they first came about , I sprayed what Standox called 'Monte Carlo Magic' it was pretty cool , I had to spray black first and then the MCMagic to get the effect . By the sound of it that is what has to happen on most of the other types of multitones to get the desired effect , so what I want to ask anyone who has sprayed this stuff is if you were to go ahead and give youself a silver marblized look like it kind of appears in the pictures , can you just spray maybe 1 coat of a multitone paint to get a similar effect , or what ever it takes ?
I think I need to start playing with the multitone stuff , but its so darn expensive !

 

[outlaw17]

Here is 2 more pics of some work in progress , apparently The black goes down first, then the holographic. Then they clear all parts and get ready to tape up the graphics. Hey Scott , we need to figure out how this is done so you can start doing it on some of your jobs

 

[outlaw17]

Man , in a couple spots it looks like little torn up pieces of some kind of holographic foil just layed on it , hmmm.

 

[DenB.]

like you say it looks like a foil type of treatment or a cross between ( abalone, or mother of pearl) REALLY COOL look forward to seeing it done like to learn it myself

 

[ezrider]

Outlaw, after giving it some thought you might wanna consider this. Spray your black base coat, use a silver white marbilizer, intercoat clear it.House of Kolor now makes Dry Kamelion pearls and have several more Kamelion dry pearls (still very expensive though) in the works. Over delute the Kamelion pearl with intercoat clear to give a faint kamelion effect or prizmatic looking.It might end up pretty close to the look your after.

Rex, whats happening? Funny you mentioned the BASF color shifting paints. On friday i visited the local BASF jobber and picked up their Extreme paint chips ( color shifting paints). They have a couple of colors that are more resonably priced, about $90 a pint and all the way up to $303 a pint but they were diffrent looking than the HOK versons. I am going to try to talk the Ole lady in to using them for the graphics on her new tin. Any way BASF has 12 Extreme colors and some of them are tri coats. Well she says she wants girlie paint again so hows Lilac marbilized with Cotton candy flames sound?

 

[TWISTED]

Has anyone tried to spray chameleons over anything other than black. my wife has nailpolish that kind of has a chameleon look and if you dont use a basecoat under it it looks almost like a clear that changes colors. It's not exactly like the pics but pretty close. I am going to have to steal my wifes polish and do some experimenting this weekend. If it works I will get a little chromalusion and try something on a tank.

I have also seen a material with the look that is on the tanks. It is sort of like gold leafing. I will have to look for it again. I will let you know if I find it.

 

[rex]

I would imagine it'll be on the lines of Harlequin and Kamelion.BASF made some neat stuff a few years ago that went on some Saleen Mustangs that had the pigment that money's printed with,pretty cool stuff but you can't get it without verification that you have one of these paintjobs and you are fixing it.When you're done they came and scarfed up the leftovers and made sure the amount left over was right.

 

[rex]

Hey man,hope things are great up there.Yeah,that Lilac and Cotton Candy sounds a little girlie to me,I think she'll like it.3 stage on the BASF stuff eh,man that sounds cool.I'll have to track down the dealer,I think they're about 45 miles away if it's still the jobber I'm thinking of.Now let me open this can of worms again,ya think it'll work with PPG's undercoats and clears?Back when I played with Glassurit I can remember it being pretty hot and liked to eat up other lines of paint.I haven't used it since BASF took over so I really don't know what's what and who's who under their name.Just hate to buy a whole system and watch the leftovers sit and go to waste.

 

[ezrider]

Rex,hows the weather been treating you down in Florida? Still warm enough to ride? i know what you mean about the left overs, i have probibly a couple thou just sitting around in the garage just waiting for the opertunity to be used. As far as capatibility i do it like this. If i have any doubt about it screwing up ill clear then use the product i doubt and move on. personally i would Use the BASF under coats with there Extreme mid coats, and as far as topcoating i am sticking with the new love of my life, Transtar clear. Have you tried it yet? My theroy about clears is if you have one you like stick with it, its the mixing of some base coats that sometimes gets me worried, like the example i gave you , i would uro clear on top of the HOK products then use the BASF, just so there is no chance of it reacting strange

.

 

[rex]

Riding times are getting scarce.I still cruise to work at least once a week and try to get out on the weekend if it isn't raining.Rained most of last week and Scott go dumped on real good,so all that water came down here and pushed the river over it's banks pretty good.This river's the size of a big stream up there until it gets to the inlet a bit south so this is nothing like the Mississippi jumping it's banks.It does tend to be a pain for people mentally challenged enough to live next to it though.Been in the 60s and 70s in the day so far so it might be like last year and I wont put it up.I need to pull the topend and I'll redo the tank then.I really dont like the layout but an oops finalized it.Haven't had time to track down that clear yet but it'll happen.I'm going back to Rubber Seal surfacer for the scooters.I got some shrinkage on my last one with that NCP255 crap and got the usual response from the rep-I screwed up of course.I'm still waiting for a rep to be honest without having to fight with them that everything they make isn't God's gift to the industry.That's OK,I'm going to probably **** of the reps at school in March when I pin them down on some things.I can relate to mixing products.Lock it down with clear and you know you're good to go.Later man,keep the OL warm

 

[DDG]

Hey guys, I found the article I mentioned before.
As quoted from Autographics mag, Nov/Dec 2002 pg.4

"Hologram Mylar is the same stuff applied to credit cards using heat/pressure transfer system.
The trick is getting the hologram effect off of the Mylar.
If you try and glue the Mylar on directly, it will delaminate, and probably look terrible.
I like to apply it much like gold leaf.
First you apply the sizing glue to the area that you wish the effect to be on. Then lay the Mylar foil side down, and transfer it using a doping iron. (This is a small iron used to apply Mylar to airplane wings.)
The heat from the iron should be adjusted high enough that you can touch it without burning your skin. You want it hot, but if it gets too hot, it can damage the size, and discolor the foil.
When you yank the Mylar, the foil will come off in an erratic fashion. Reapplication of the foil in the sme area will give complete coverage. This erratic pattern looks pretty kewl, almost like an opal.
After the foil is applied, you should spray some adhesion promoter, such as HOK AP-01. This will allow the clear to bond to the foil, without delaminating, or bubbling up."
You can get the foil, sizing glue and doping iron from Coast Airbrush.
Well, that's it. The article was written by Craig Fraser so I think we can all trust what it says.
To me it looks like they used the Holographic Mylar in this fashion.
Hope this helps Boys.
Dirt

 

[TAZ]

Wow Tinys!
Been a member for 6 months and this is your first post!!! Someones been takin some notes!!

Thanks for the participation! Enjoy!

Pretty interesting topic!!

By the way guys, I was gone all weekend...obviously I'm back now! Miss me??

 

[rex]

Didn't know you were gone

Glad to have you back,man has my time been scarce lately.Keep cranking out those killer paintjobs

 

[Tinys]

This is my first posting and I'm happy to say that I've done this type of painting before so get ready to take notes. You must first paint a base coat of black. Clear this or use intercoat to cover. Lay down a rough layer of silver leaf or foil. The more texture you have, the more effect you will get. Apply clear or intercoat over that with pearl. Marbelize and intercoat. This in itself is a cool effect but there's more. Apply Standox "liquid silver" ontop of that. More is not better, but you can base that on your taste. Lay generous coats of clear to cover the very rough finish and you've got it.

That ought to be worth a few stars,

Tiny