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tooter
Guest
WHAT PREPARATON IS NEED BEFORE U APPLY THE GLUE FOR THE MYLAR?AND IS THERE ANY KIND OF BASE DO U NEED TO USE.I THIUGHT ABOUT USING IT FOR THE FLAMES .DO U PUT IT ON A BASE MOR INFO NEEDED THANKS
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Bigdan1928
Guest
A friend of mine here in san antonio does all the low rider paint jobs and has donea couple like this.He used a tining material thats for turning chrome emblems gold.You ude it before the gold goes on and it is holographic.I dont know details but he mixes it with intercoat and layers it with camilion flake.He goes one coat of each back and forth for around 6 coats. He says that the tining stuff is transparent but when the camilion shows through you get the hologram loo to it.Not excactly what is shown but i think it looks cooler.He candys it with the color of choice just to tint it to where he wants it.There is no base showing,its all coverage but wood look SWEET for flames.He normaly uses a silver metalic base for the job.I hope this helps?
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DenB.
Guest
I did some lengthy searching on my own and with the help of email to craig fraser -super helpful- what dirt wrote is just what coast airbrush advised i'll be trying it soon myself will let everyone know what turns out
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DenB.
Guest
the company that claims to have a patent on that type of paint job! B/S. Get the holographic mylar and experiment, after laying down the black base or what ever color you chose intercoat then brush or spay gold/silver leaf sizing(glue) let it get tacky-unlike some paint jobs-
use an iron the type you get at a hobby shop for doing airplane mylar heat it up but not too hot as was mentioned before apply to tank or fender with random breaks then clear (pearl or kandy) your choice just play with it good luck to alland to all a good paint lol
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DenB.
Guest
maybe i shouldn't post with a few screwdrivers down the throat
and to all a good paint
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outlaw17
Guest
But where the heck do we get the mylar from ? I want to try this real bad but I just can't seem to find holoraphic mylar ! Do you have to have the intercoat clear on the base coat for this to work , or can you just do it on the base ? I guess I should just look at the above posts to see that Coast Airbrush has it all , but then again that sucks cuz I'm way up here in the great white north ! Anyone got a picture of the Mylar ?
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tooter
Guest
I BOUGHT ALL THE STUFF FROM COASTAIRBRUSH BUT THEY DIDNT TELL ME THAT I NEED A ACT FOR THE GLUE SO U IRON IT AFTER U APPLY IT ?AND IS THERE A CERTIN SIDE ON THE FOIL. HAVE THE THE INGREDENTS JUST NEED THE RECIPIE
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DenB.
Guest
ok here it goes,
contact coast airbrush order a roll of H-Mylar ( holographic) 6"x 100 yrds. $25.00 at a local hobby shop they should have small irons used for heating and shrinking mylar for wings and such, then at local art supply stores get a small can of ROLCO size that's gold leaf adhesive you can get either slow set or fast. fast is usually 1-3 hrs. as it set to a tacky feel, start working the iron this will release the mylar from the backing material you'll have at that time the right side up. but,---- practice with it first DAHHHH!
TOO OBVIOUS! APPLY IT TO WORK SURFACE IF YOU GET A BIT OF A TEXTURE NOT TO WORRY CAN MEAN MORE EFFECT then intercoat over that add pearls , candies or whatever then any designs good luck to all and post the pics.
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Donald
Guest
I saw this post and tought I would give it a shot. I had one of my sign making suppliers send me a yard of holographic mylar that is made by Avery. I almost used up the whole 15" X 36" of the stuff trying to take off the mylar leaving the coating intact. Just no such luck. Is the holographic mylar used a special one. The one I have is for outdoor signs and is guaranteed 6 months againts the elements.
Don
Don
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DenB.
Guest
you used the right one. do you have heat setting on the small iron? if not it's just going to take alot of practice i've been working on it myself good luck
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DenB.
Guest
just wonderin' if everybody who ordered from coast airbrush the holographic mylar got your materials yet? took me two weeks because of back order with their supplier (no complaints from me) i called to ask about my order and they told me about the large amount of calls for the material. had a laugh sayin it might be because of the" flame board"
so Good luck to all who ordered just don't get too frustrated practicing with it. you may end up with few new words in you vocab.
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DenB.
Guest
JUS' WONDERING! HOW'S EVERYONE DOING WITH THEIR HOLOGRAPHIC MYLAR PRACTICING?
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Donald
Guest
I purchased a small custom sealing iron made by hobbico. It has adjustable temp. I am still trying to lift the mylar off the holographic film. I am really having a hard time at it since I did not succed once after about 8 hrs work. Just about ready to throw in the towel...
Don
Don
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DenB.
Guest
Don't throw it in yet. after your glue is tacky lay down the mylar on it. apply the iron working it around so not to risk burning the paint/glue while keeping a corner up so you can pull it after a minute or so you'll figure out how long to leave the iron on it with practice then remove heat and pull away the mylar which should leave the foil on the work surface if you've ironed the right side. from there you should be good to go. Godd Luck if any more help is needed feel free to ask so far my practice pieces have come out good and i'd be happy to lend any help i can
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Donald
Guest
May be i'm not using the right glue! I can't get Rolco seize around here. Anything else might work?
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DenB.
Guest
I CAN'T THINK OTHER NAMES RIGHT NOW. BUT, THE BEST SUG. I COULD GIVE IS CONTACT A LOCAL ART SUPPLY AND ASK FOR ( GOLD LEAF) SIZING GLUE
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DenB.
Guest
I've been doing quite a bit of experimenting with the treatment and i've found that the best (sizing) glue to use is the clear that you choose to use. Use a slow reducer let it tack and then put on the foil, just remember to let it dry to the tacky stage. because if you put on the foil to soon the foil will absorb the clear and fog up. By using the gold sizing and then using urathane over all the rest, the urathane dries faster than the sizing and creates wrinkles and less shine. Hope this is helpful!