Quick question about pearls

[Timber]

Got a project I'm laying out and I'm not sure which layer to begin with. Harley tins. Doing a crushed ice white pearl with metal flake silver lines and blue panels. All the tins are new raw metal at the moment. Degreased and 80 grit Da. Then shoot some epoxy primer over and then body filler over the lows and normal metal imperfections. Sand again with 80 to 180 or 220 then silver base the whole thing and bury flake in mid coat (or should I clear and wet sand a few days later?) Then lay out my lines and tape out for pearl and again mid coat just the pearl areas. Then layout graphic areas and airbrush them in - candy over those areas, pull tape and then 3 coats of clear over whole project? Sound right?

This is sort of what I'm trying to achieve but with more silver borders.

 

[chopolds_2]

First, when bodywork is done, and in final primer, you need to sad it with WAY finer grit than 220. I would do 4 or 500 if single stage, 600 (some say 1000) for metallics/pearls. Now, if you are using REAL flake (large) I would use a finish clear, not a basecoat formula, to lock it down. Because it's thicker, and will cover with less coats, and is stronger. Intercoats should not be put on too thick, which is what big flake needs.
I'm also not a fan of putting pearl over flake, or visa versa. It lessens the flake effect, without giving much of a pearl-y look. But that's personal taste. Other than that, you look OK. A light mid coat over graphics is enough, as long as you just use a fine Scotchbrite to prep it for final clear, instead of sanding.

 

[Timber]

First, when bodywork is done, and in final primer, you need to sad it with WAY finer grit than 220. I would do 4 or 500 if single stage, 600 (some say 1000) for metallics/pearls. Now, if you are using REAL flake (large) I would use a finish clear, not a basecoat formula, to lock it down. Because it's thicker, and will cover with less coats, and is stronger. Intercoats should not be put on too thick, which is what big flake needs.
I'm also not a fan of putting pearl over flake, or visa versa. It lessens the flake effect, without giving much of a pearl-y look. But that's personal taste. Other than that, you look OK. A light mid coat over graphics is enough, as long as you just use a fine Scotchbrite to prep it for final clear, instead of sanding.

Thanks for the info. I will be using real flake. So if I'm using final type clear I should wait about a week cure time before scuffing with 3m pad for graphics? Thanks.

 

[chopolds_2]

If the temp in the shop is over 68*, you only need to wait a day or 2. Longer is safer, though!

 

[Timber]

If the temp in the shop is over 68*, you only need to wait a day or 2. Longer is safer, though!

Got it. Thanks!