Start to finish after paint ?'s

[mjgord5113]

It's been quite a while from doing " cut to finish " steps from my So Cal early days - before the 70's you know the Lacquer days.
So with that said I have a project of mine a 68 C10 with a black paint job (single stage I believe ) inside and out over the original GM light blue paint. Now I'm not looking for perfection but still want most of the 1000 grt scratches out of the door I painted with Dupil-Color spray can three coats. My problem is I have CRS or can't remember shit syndrome LOL with knowing these days paints isn't like anything I remember back in the 60's.

So can or will anyone here give me a short version (steps with equipment and materials) of after paint to finishing up with wax? I have been gathering up some paint tools or equipment not much though and would appreciate any and all information given.
Thanks, MJ

 

[chopolds_2]

3 coats of Duplicolor might not give you enough film thickness to sand and buff. The paint is so thin!
In any case, my procedure, for daily drivers, is to sand with 1000 (wet), then 1500, then on darker colors I will do a 3000 cut, as well. Then a 2 or 3 step buff. Micro-fine compound, then a liquid polish, then (optional) a swirl remover, or glaze.

 

[mjgord5113]

3 coats of Duplicolor might not give you enough film thickness to sand and buff. The paint is so thin!
In any case, my procedure, for daily drivers, is to sand with 1000 (wet), then 1500, then on darker colors I will do a 3000 cut, as well. Then a 2 or 3 step buff. Micro-fine compound, then a liquid polish, then (optional) a swirl remover, or glaze.

Probably should have said this at first - - - so here it is

Thanks. W n D paper i have is 1000, 1500, 2000. For my cutting compounds I have 3M products, #05973 rubbing combound II coarse, #06062 rub - comp 3000 med to fine, #06068 ultrafine se 3000 fine.
So far I've only used the 1000 grt w/d paper with good results but only on 90% of surface thinking the other 10% of surface shows the fine hair line scratches probably cauz paper got loaded up some leaving the scratches and they didn't show untill rubbed out. The only pad I have so far is the white wool fluffy type one for cutting the rubbing compound which if I remember right that wool pad was the only pad we used for Lacquer paint jobs back then 69/70 yrs. What other pad/s is needed for the other finishing compounds ?
Again thanks, MJ

 

[chopolds_2]

Stay away from anything coarse, if you sand it to 1500 or 3000. As for pads, I use a regular wool pad for compound, and 2 different softness foam pads for the polish and glaze. The 06062 should be your first compound. In the real world you could use the 06068 next, and be fine. Maybe just some good carnauba wax on top, to protect it.

 

[JCCLARK]

You shouldn't put wax on fresh paint, not for about 90 days anyway.
There's really no reason to want to put wax on new paint,
does no good and can only create a problem

 

[mjgord5113]

You shouldn't put wax on fresh paint, not for about 90 days anyway.
There's really no reason to want to put wax on new paint,
does no good and can only create a problem

This truck will probably Never see wax - maybe just polishing compound after the rubbing combound from at first.
The black paint I'll probably DA most of it off in places to get to the underneath Original light blue and in spots also getting down to it's primer and end up with a Patina type look or something close.