I've learned a lot!

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Assuming you would be going with a non-metallic red, I would not go with a black sealer. I would suggest a lighter gray sealer. If one is not available, you can mix a black and white sealer to make a lighter gray sealer.

You could do your stripes first or last. Personally, I would probably do them last. you just have to make sure you mask off the rest of the car very good to keep the metallic sparkles from getting on the red.
if you did the stripes last, just mask off your stripes, then spray a couple thin coats of black first before your charcoal. This will make the charcoal cover quicker.

If you sprayed the complete car in a sealer first, then sprayed the stripes, then decide to do the red color the next day, some sealers may give you a problem.

Soooo.....
If you spray the red first
spray your lighter gray sealer (assuming it's a brighter to medium solid red)
spray your red
mask off your stripes (cover the complete car except the stripes)
Spray a couple coats of black or a dark gray (not sealer, just some base you can make up. This needs to be a 'solid' color)
Spray your stripes (keeping in mind, that you need to keep the edge to a minimum. The darker gray or the black sealer will help speed up the actual charcoal metallic coverage)
remove your mask
clearcoat complete car

If you spray your stripes first
spray your lighter gray sealer (assuming it's a brighter to medium solid red)
spray an area where the stripes would go in a black or darker gray (do not mask off the stripes, just spray an area bigger than where the stripes would go)
mask up the stripes
important! Spray a lighter gray base about the same color as the sealer (close as possible)
spray your red
clearcoat

In both cases, the darker the charcoal metallic, the darker the base should be (i.e. use a black for a very dark charcoal metallic. Use a medium gray sealer if you are using a medium charcoal metallic)

Again, I would still do the red first if it was me, but it's totally up to you!

Here is a nice red

$%28KGrHqR,!jIE1NRr,kN!BN,F8JPthQ~~0_12.JPG

Here are some other red Jaguars
possibly you can find the red you like





 
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dallas_

New member
Assuming you would be going with a non-metallic red, I would not go with a black sealer. I would suggest a lighter gray sealer.

Is this because of the red base color?

If you sprayed the complete car in a sealer first, then sprayed the stripes, then decide to do the red color the next day, some sealers may give you a problem.

ok, good to know. Would the tech sheets show this?

important! Spray a lighter gray base about the same color as the sealer (close as possible)
spray your red

ok. Is that because of the red? Do you recommend this for all colors?

Again, I would still do the red first if it was me, but it's totally up to you!

Sounds good. Why do you prefer to do the stripes last?

I was planning to lay down the stripes first because it seemed like it would be quicker to tape over the stripe color then spray the rest than the other way around. I'm concerned about running out of time. Especially if waiting until the next day causes a problem with the sealer.

Is red a harder color to make look good?
Maybe I need to rethink my color selection!

Thanks again for all the tips. :bigokay:
 
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TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
As far as the reds, most all reds are transparent, so just from experience, I can tell you that the better you get the 'shade' of sealer, the 'easier' it is to apply the red (and the less materials you use)

The tech sheets 'might' tell you. Not for sure on that.

Red will be your main color and yes, you want to concentrate on this. You will probably need to apply more coats of this versus the charcoal metallic.

I see either way working, but I would do the red first.
 

dallas_

New member
I see either way working, but I would do the red first.

Then that's what we'll do. :bigokay:

Getting closer on the block sanding. Set the body back on the chassis to make sure the gaps are good. Found some areas that still need attention.

Block sanding 4 012a.jpg
 

dallas_

New member
After blowing it off with compressed air and wiping with a tack cloth (thanks for the tack cloth tip), I found a few pin holes in the primer.

Any good tips or products to fill those in before we spray the primer/sealer?
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Normally what I do is take a new razor blade and mix up some flowable putty. Then I smear in the putty firmly with the edge of the blade. if you do this correctly, you'll have very minimal sanding to do.

Sounds like you're close. Did you end up taking the body back off to paint it? Or are you leaving it on?
 

dallas_

New member
Great, thanks.
I'll take the body off and put it back on the buck to trailer it to the booth and paint it.
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Great to hear!
Since your are a forum supporter, and since you are soooo close to painting your Cobra body, if you have any questions or run into any problems, feel free to give me a call directly, I'll see if I can guide you through.
You can PM me for my phone number.
 

dallas_

New member
ok, so I can't get the booth until June so I have a little more time to make sure it's as close to perfect as possible before I spray.

Consulted with the paint supplier who recommended we NOT use a primer/sealer over the Slick Sand. Says they have more reports of problems with primer/sealer than without.

Thoughts/comments/opinions??
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
As long as you have the surface in a nice consistent shade, you will be fine.
 

dallas_

New member
Coming along but ran into a slight glitch. When sanding one area, got a small grain of sand or something on the sanding block and dug a couple of grooves in one section.

What's a good trick to fill those in with the Slick Sand without respraying that section? Can I use a artist brush or something?

Thanks again for all the help.
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
I don't think you ever let us know what color you were going with? Let me know....makes a difference.
 

dallas_

New member
I don't think you ever let us know what color you were going with? Let me know....makes a difference.

I've narrowed it down to red, silver, blue or black.

ok, that's not much help, is it? If I had a gun to my head today it would be Lamborghini titanium. like this:

DSC03617.jpg
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Ah, okay, I thought you sprayed the base already. Sounds like you got the scratch in the primer. Just block out that area (don't concentrate on just that scratch or you will leave a "valley"). Then just reprime that area with low pressure using the same primer gun.
 

dallas_

New member
Ah, okay, I thought you sprayed the base already. Sounds like you got the scratch in the primer. Just block out that area (don't concentrate on just that scratch or you will leave a "valley"). Then just reprime that area with low pressure using the same primer gun.

Yes, just the primer. Still a few weeks away from getting access to the booth.

I was kind of hoping I could just touch those areas up, but no problem. I'll respray those areas tomorrow. Thanks for the advise.
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Just be sure not to concentrate on that area. Block out a BIG area until those scratches are gone

Also, keep the pressure low so you don't have to resand alot of area.
 

dallas_

New member
Was supposed to lay down the base and clear tomorrow, the school called and cancelled the class. I'm bummed. :crap:

Had signed up for a continuing education class to have access to a nice downdraft booth, supplied air and Sata guns.

So... any concerns about having the high build primer on the car for another month before I can paint?
 
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