I've learned a lot!

dallas_

New member
Also if you decide on something like a medium red pearl, I would suggest using a medium solid gray sealer, wet on wet, which means, spray the sealer, then spray the base right over that (no sanding in between). Let me know what color you decide on.

TAZ, we're pretty much decided on the 3R1 or G2 medium red pearl.

I got someone else to look at it to get a second set of eyes on it and they found some minor flaws. I should have those corrections done this week, then I'll be ready to spray.

I can only have the booth on Saturdays from 8 am to 2 pm.

I don't want to run out of time. Could I do the sealer one day then come back the next week for bc/cc?
 

dallas_

New member
Got the stripe color sprayed. Went with a silver metallic for the stripes.

Stripe Color 2a.jpg

We're taping the stripes off now, and should be able to spray the color this Saturday. Color will be red (G2 Ford Redfire).
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Should be sweet looking. Be sure and use a plastic of fineline for the edge of your stripes. Saw your gallery pics!!!!

SWEET. You're getting close!
 

dallas_

New member
Just want to say thanks again to the people who are willing to share their knowledge and experience. Thanks to you guys we started to think it was possible to do the paint ourselves.

We got the stripes taped off: (that took longer and was a bit more challenging than I thought it would be)

Stripes taped.jpg


Sprayed the primer and base coat then removed the tape:


Paint - base coat.jpg

Then sprayed the clear:

Final paint.jpg

There are a few flaws and a few dust nibs, but the cut and buff should take out most of them. It's probably not show quality, but we are pleased with how it came out.

Paint_-_Clearcoat_005a.jpg
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
That does look super sharp!!!!
The stripe came out great. Glad to see you did that first, as silver is very hard to keep a 'crisp' edge on it.

As far as wetsanding.
Use 1500 wet if you don't have a lot of peel. If you do, you can start with 1200. Then go to 1500. Very seldom do I start with 1200.
Tri-fold the half sheets and use lot's of water. Keep your hand flat (or use a 'soft' 3M sponge block)
Get the car completely 'flat' (no gloss) before you even start buffing.

My motto is...
"Sand until you think you are done, then sand it some more!"

Looking good. Great pics!
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
There are different ways and materials to achieve the same result.
But personally I like using the 3M foam pads (5723) and the 3M compound (5085). I liked the 5936 compound better, but I don't think they make it any more.

Buff until you think you are done, then buff it some more.
Meaning if you don't buff enough, you'll see some of the 1500 scratches come back

Most clears, you can wetsand and buff the next day. The longer you wait, the harder the clear will be to wetsand and buff.
 

LudicrousSpeed

New member
There are different ways and materials to achieve the same result.
But personally I like using the 3M foam pads (5723) and the 3M compound (5085). I liked the 5936 compound better, but I don't think they make it any more.

Buff until you think you are done, then buff it some more.
Meaning if you don't buff enough, you'll see some of the 1500 scratches come back

Most clears, you can wetsand and buff the next day. The longer you wait, the harder the clear will be to wetsand and buff.

Tell me about it! I did a hood for my friends mustang, using his facilities. Due to our schedules, it was nearly a week before I could get back on it, and I think sanding the concrete floor would have been easier!

That car is looking great! Love the color combo
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Yep, nothing is more aggravating than trying to buff a super hard clearcoat!!!!
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Probably should start with 1200, then 1500, then a quick 2000. That should make it a bit easier.
ALL clears are different though.
 

dallas_

New member
It's been a while, but finally got the body test fit on the chassis.
Hope to be on the road before too long. :)

FFR 4a.jpg
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Absolutely beautiful!!!!!
I wondered how your Cobra was coming!!!!
Great Job!!!!
 

dallas_

New member
Thought I'd post a couple of shots of the tilt front too.
Glad I did the tilt front because I have to pull the engine and send it back to Ford Racing for some warranty repair. :crap:

Tilt Front 21a.jpgTilt Front 18a.jpg
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Great looking..ouch. have to pull the motor. Noise or something? Hopefully they get the problem resolved quick for you!
good time to do a super detail job when the motor is out :)
 

dallas_

New member
..ouch. have to pull the motor. Noise or something? Hopefully they get the problem resolved quick for you!

Oil in the combustion chambers. Every plug is oil fouled. Seems the volume of oil in the heads is overwhelming the valve seals. It was dyno tested and I have about 5 miles on it. Was hoping to get a few more than that before having to pull it. :)
 
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